We recommend using EP Color Paste within 6 months after opening.
You can run a small test the open EP Color Paste with a small amount of epoxy resin before starting a large project or discarding the EP Color Paste.

Use our calculator to determine the exact amount of resin and hardener of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system you need based on your project dimensions. Just put the length, width, and height of your mold into the calculator for accurate results. The calculator is showing the amount of resin and hardener. For coating, we recommend a layer thickness of min. 1/16“with our ECO system.

The mixing ratio of our ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system is 2:1 (resin A-component : hardener b-component). 

Yes, we offer a variety of equipment for working with epoxy of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system, including mixing jugs, jerry cans, gloves, scales, sanding materials, release tape, separating spray, as well as, ready to use accessory kits.

No, we don’t sell silicone molds or any pre-made mold. However, if you're working on a larger project, such as creating a custom table, we offer everything you need to build your own mold, including release tape, silicone, and other essential tools. We also sell RTV silicone molding, which is a 2-part liquid silicone to make your own reusable mold.

The difference between the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system is that the PRO series (PRO, PRO+) is crystal clear, like water.
In addition, the PRO series is UV-stabilised, so it has an additional additive against yellowing and color-changes due to sunlight. ECO System is also clear but not crystal clear and it has no UV-stabilizer additives.

Our PRO serie is formulated with advanced UV inhibitors (this gives a light blue/purple tint to the A-component PRO), delivering the highest level of UV protection available on the market. In contrast, our ECO system is not UV-stabilized and is therefore best suited for applications involving darker colors. Please note that no epoxy resin is entirely UV-resistant, and slight yellowing may still occur over time.

We recommend working at 70°F when not exceeding the maximal pouring height or each resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system.

The min. temperature when working with our epoxy resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system is 60°F, this is also the recommended working temperature when working with our PRO+ System on thicker layers.

The working temperature doesn’t only mean the room temperature! It is important that the substrate, and the epoxy itself are also at the right temperature.

You need to line your wooden mold with our separating tape and then spray the surface with our separating agent spray before pouring epoxy resin ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system.

It is important to put the separating tape next to each other and not overlapping in your mold. Overlapping the separating tape in the mold, will result in irregularity on the surface and will be tedious to sand after curing of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system.

If you are pouring the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system in a silicone mold, the release spray is enough.
When making your own frame to pour the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system, for example for a river table, we recommend both the release tape and spray to facilitate unmolding of the ECO system, PRO system, or PRO+ system. Using only the separating tape is possible, but the resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system will be hard to free from the frame. 

Putting the separating spray on the silicone mold is increasing the longevity of the silicone mold and easing the unmolding of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system. When using our separating spray, it is important to wipe off the excess before pouring your epoxy resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system.

Epoxy Resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system sticks to everything except silicone and some plastic. Therefore, we recommend using silicone mold when working with epoxy resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system. We do not recommend latex mold, fibreglass mold or carbon fibre molds as the epoxy resin from the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system will stick to it. 

In general, epoxy resin of the ECO system (clear) and PRO (Crystal clear) series is applied by pouring the mixed resin onto the surface and spreading it evenly. You can use a brush, roller, or squeegee to distribute the epoxy resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system across the surface. For edges or detailed areas, a brush is often the best tool for precision to apply the epoxy resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system.
This is a general answer, as the exact method can vary depending on the type of project you're working on with our epoxy resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system. (e.g., floors, countertops, molds, or artwork).

Instructions for Use TRANSPARENT CLEAR ECO System
We recommend using the clear resin ECO System to apply 2 layers. The first layer ECO System serves as a primer, use 1/4 of the resin ECO (A) and hardener ECO (B) component for this step.
Mix the resin ECO (A) with the hardener ECO (B) in a ratio of 2:1 (e.g., 64fl.oz. resin: 32fl.oz. hardener).
Ideally, transfer the mixture of ECO System to a clean mixing bucket and stir again. This will ensure that the resin ECO (A) and hardener ECO(B) are completely mixed together.
Pour the mixture ECO onto the substrate immediately after mixing, as the product can boil up in the mixing bucket.
Apply the ECO epoxy resin with foam roller over the entire substrate. 
Let the first layer ECO cure.
Mix the remaining 3/4 of the resin ECO (A) and hardener ECO (B) for the main coat.
Mix the resin ECO (A) with the hardener ECO (B) in a ratio of 2:1 (e.g., 64fl.oz. resin: 32fl.oz. hardener).
Ideally, transfer the ECO mixture to a clean mixing bucket and stir again. This will ensure that the resin ECO (A) and hardener ECO (B) are completely mixed together.
Pour the ECO mixture onto the substrate immediately after mixing, as the product can boil up in the mixing bucket.
Apply the ECO system with a squeegee or foam roller flooding the entire substrate. 
The main coating ECO can be walked on/touches after approx. 20 hours and ECO is completely chemically cured after approx. 7 days.
Info: Epoxy resin is sensitive to any kind of moisture during curing (risk of amine blush formation, i.e. white patches in the top layer). For this reason, we recommend that you avoid any contact between water and the epoxy ECO until it has cured completely (at least 7 days). For thin layers, cold temperatures (ambient, substrate, and resin temperatures below 70°F) and increased humidity, the time until the epoxy resin is fully cured may be extended.

Please ensure that your substrate is dry, stable, level, and free from dirt or separating agents before applying the epoxy. While it is possible to level the substrate using epoxy, please note that this will require more material than the standard recommended quantity.

Instructions for Use ECO System with 1 Metallic Color

Start with the Primer 1K

We recommend a room, substrate, and product temperature of approx. 70°F when working with our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
the substrate should be dust-free, clean, and even. Level out holes, unevenness, and slopes in advance with a suitable levelling compound before applying our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Start with Primer 1k when it is supplied in our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Mix the Primer 1k and pour it into a paint tray.
Roll the Primer 1k onto the desired surface with a paint roller.
Allow the primer 1k to dry (approx. 8-12 hours) before applying the ECO system.

Continue with the Main Coat with ECO System

Use our ECO epoxy resin system (resin + hardener) for the main coating of your metallic countertop/flooring.
Mix the resin (A) ECO with the hardener (B) ECO in a ratio of 2:1 (e.g., 64fl.oz. resin: 32fl.oz. hardener).
Ideally, transfer the resin-hardener ECO Sytem to a clean mixing bucket and stir again. This will ensure that the resin (A) and hardener (B) ECO System are completely mixed together.
Add the supplied metallic pigment to the resin/hardener mixture ECO system (1g of metallic pigment per 2fl.oz. of epoxy.70g (2.5oz) of pigment per gallon of epoxy ECO system).
Pour the colored ECO System onto the substrate immediately after mixing, as the product can boil up in the mixing bucket.
Apply the colored ECO system with a squeegee and foam roller flooding the entire substrate. 
The main coating ECO system can be walked on/touched after approx. 20 hours and ECO is completely chemically cured after approx. 7 days.
Info: Epoxy resin is sensitive to any kind of moisture during curing (risk of amine blush formation, i.e. white patches in the top layer). For this reason, we recommend that you avoid any contact between water and the epoxy until it has cured completely. For thin layers, cold temperatures (ambient, substrate, and resin temperatures below 70°F) and increased humidity, the time until the epoxy resin is fully cured may be extended.

Instructions for Use ECO System with 2 Colors

Start with the Primer 1K

We recommend a room, substrate, and product temperature of approx. 70°F when working with our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
the substrate should be dust-free, clean, and even. Level out holes, unevenness, and slopes in advance with a suitable levelling compound before applying our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Start with Primer 1k when it is supplied in our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Mix the Primer 1k and pour it into a paint tray.
Roll the Primer 1k onto the desired surface with a paint roller.
Allow the primer 1k to dry (approx. 8-12 hours) before applying the ECO system.

Continue with the Main Coat with ECO System

Use our ECO epoxy resin system (resin + hardener) for the main coating of your flooring/countertop in multiple colors.
Divide the amount of resin (A) and hardener (B) proportionally between the two colors supplied in your flooring or countert set BEFORE MIXING! It is important to plan the amount for each color before mixing. 
Mix the resin (A) ECO with the hardener (B) ECO for the main color in a ratio of 2:1 (e.g., 64fl.oz. resin: 32fl.oz. hardener).
Ideally, transfer the mixed ECO system to a clean mixing bucket and stir again. This will ensure that the resin (A) and hardener (B) are completely mixed together.
Add the supplied MAIN COLOR to the resin/hardener ECO mixture.
Pour the colored ECO system onto the substrate immediately after mixing, as the product can boil up in the mixing bucket.
Apply the colored ECO system with a squeegee and foam roller flooding the entire floor. We recommend a layer thickness of 1/16“.
Now mix and apply the highlight color of your countertop of flooring ECO system set in the same way and work the color wet in wet into the base color as a highlight.
The main coating ECO system can be walked on after approx. 20 hours and ECO is completely chemically cured after approx. 7 days.
Info: Epoxy resin is sensitive to any kind of moisture during curing (risk of amine blush formation, i.e. white patches in the top layer). For this reason, we recommend that you avoid any contact between water and the epoxy until it has cured completely. For thin layers, cold temperatures (ambient, substrate, and resin temperatures below 70°F) and increased humidity, the time until the epoxy resin is fully cured may be extended.

Recommended quantity of color pigment/paste:
Metallic powder: 1g of pigment per 2fl.oz of epoxy.70g (2.5oz) of pigment per gallon of epoxy eco system.
RAL Solid Color Paste: 1g of dye per 3fl.oz of epoxy. 40g (1.5oz) of dye per gallon of epoxy eco system).

Instructions for Use ECO System with RAL EP Color Paste

Start with the Primer 1K

We recommend a room, substrate, and product temperature of approx. 70°F when working with our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
the substrate should be dust-free, clean, and even. Level out holes, unevenness, and slopes in advance with a suitable levelling compound before applying our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Start with Primer 1k when it is supplied in our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Mix the Primer 1k and pour it into a paint tray.
Roll the Primer 1k onto the desired surface with a paint roller.
Allow the primer 1k to dry (approx. 8-12 hours) before applying the ECO system.

Continue with the Main Coat with ECO System

Use our ECO epoxy resin system (resin + hardener) for the main coating of solid color set for countertop or flooring.
Mix the resin (A) ECO with the hardener (B) ECO in a ratio of 2:1 (e.g., 64fl.oz. resin: 32fl.oz. hardener).
Ideally, transfer the mixed ECO system to a clean mixing bucket and stir again. This will ensure that the resin (A) and hardener (B) ECO are completely mixed together.
Add the supplied RAL paste to the resin/hardener ECO mixture (1g of dye per 3fl.oz. of epoxy. 40g (1.5oz) of dye per gallon of epoxy eco system).
Pour the colored ECO System onto the substrate immediately after mixing, as the product can boil up in the mixing bucket.
Apply the colored ECO System with a squeegee and foam roller flooding the entire substrate. 
The main coating ECO system can be walked on/touched after approx. 20 hours and ECO is completely chemically cured after approx. 7 days.
Info: Epoxy resin is sensitive to any kind of moisture during curing (risk of amine blush formation, i.e. white patches in the top layer). For this reason, we recommend that you avoid any contact between water and the epoxy until it has cured completely. For thin layers, cold temperatures (ambient, substrate, and resin temperatures below 70°F) and increased humidity, the time until the epoxy resin is fully cured may be extended.

Instructions for use Marble Flooring / Marble Countertop

Start with the Primer 1K

We recommend a room, substrate, and product temperature of approx. 70°F when working with our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
the substrate should be dust-free, clean, and even. Level out holes, unevenness, and slopes in advance with a suitable levelling compound before applying our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
In the marble epoxy resin set with ECO System, the 1K Primer must be dyed. Dye the 1K PRIMER from the marble epoxy resin set with our supplied WB PIGMENT paste and mix well (add 100g (3.5oz) WB pigment to 0.33gal 1K Primer). It is very important to never add the WB PIGMENT in the epoxy resin from the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system.
Pour the colored primer 1k into a paint tray after mixing.
Roll the colored primer 1k onto the desired surface with a paint roller.
Allow the primer 1k to dry (approx. 8-12 hours).
Spray the desired marbling on the primed surface with the Marble Effect Spray and allow it to dry.

Continue with the Main Coat with ECO System

Use our ECO epoxy resin system (resin + hardener) for the main coating of your marble set.
Mix the resin (A) with the hardener (B) in a ratio of 2:1 (e.g., 64fl.oz. resin: 32fl.oz. hardener).
Ideally, transfer the resin-hardener mixture to a clean mixing bucket and stir again. This will ensure that the resin (A) and hardener (B) are completely mixed together.
Pour the resin-hardener mixture ECO system onto the substrate immediately after mixing, as the product can boil up in the mixing bucket.
The main coating of ECO System can be walked on/touched after approx. 20 hours and ECO is completely chemically cured after approx. 7 days.
Info: Epoxy resin is sensitive to any kind of moisture during curing (risk of amine blush formation, i.e. white patches in the top layer). For this reason, we recommend that you avoid any contact between water and the epoxy until it has cured completely. For thin layers, cold temperatures (ambient, substrate, and resin temperatures below 70°F) and increased humidity, the time until the epoxy resin is fully cured may be extended.

Our epoxy resin systems of the ECO and PRO systems can be safely applied over underfloor heating. We recommend activating the heating system after the resin of the ECO and PRO systems has fully cured and running it continuously for several days. This process enhances the chemical reaction of the ECO or PRO resin system, thereby accelerating its curing. Additionally, operating the heating at full capacity improves the resin's heat resistance and scratch resistance.

For optimal results, we suggest maintaining a surface curing period of 24 hours at 70°F with working on a floor with our ECO and PRO systems. Once the surface coated with our ECO or PRO system is no longer tacky, increase the temperature of the floor to 73-75°F for the following 6 days. This procedure will ensure excellent final hardness and durability of the floor coated with ECO or PRO system.

As a general rule, expansion joints do not need to be added when applying epoxy resin ECO or PRO system. However, if expansion joints are already present in the substrate to be coated with ECO or PRO system, these should be left open in the resin. The expansion joints can be taped using our masking tape. Once the resin begins to gel (approximately 6 hours after application), the masking tape must be removed to prevent it from bonding with the epoxy resin.

It is crucial to ensure that the underlying structure of the floor is professionally completed prior to the application of the epoxy resin ECO or PRO series or microcement. Specifically, floating screeds should never be in direct contact with the walls to accommodate any potential expansion of the screed. We therefore recommend the installation of "edge insulation strips" during the initial floor construction using screed or levelling compound. During the epoxy resin ECO or PRO system application, it is essential to ensure that the edge joints remain unsealed.

We do not recommend applying our epoxy resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system to vertical surfaces or on slopes. Due to their low viscosity, the resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system tends to run, resulting in streaks. While it is possible to apply the epoxy of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system in multiple layers on slopes or vertical surface, this technique requires significant expertise and precision, which is why we do not recommend applying the epoxy resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system on vertical surface or slopes.

It is possible to apply the epoxy resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system to the panels horizontally and then mount the panels vertically. It would also be possible to unmount a door and apply epoxy of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system before letting it cure and mount the door again after curing of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system.

For your project, we recommend using the PRO system with a layer thickness up to 3/4“, or the PRO+ system with a layer thickness up to 2“. Both the PRO and PRO+ systems cure crystal clear and provide the highest protection against yellowing, thanks to their UV-resistant properties. We suggest pouring the resin PRO or PRO+ System to a level that fully covers the bottle caps (approximately 1/16“over the bottle cap).

To make the frame of your bottle cap table, we recommend using an aluminium strip, which can be coated with our release tape and release spray. Additionally, you will need accessories such as mixing cups, stirring sticks, and gloves for your bottle cap table.

We advise a processing temperature of 67-70°F with our PRO and PRO+ System for your bottle cap table. It is crucial to maintain this temperature range with our PRO and PRO+ system, as exceeding or falling below it may result in improper curing or boiling of the epoxy.

To secure the bottle caps, you can press them into the gelling 1st layer of epoxy or glue them beforehand. Please note that the bottle caps are hollow, which could allow air to be released into the resin. Therefore, we recommend filling the caps beforehand with, epoxy, acrylic, tile adhesive, or grout filler to avoid this issue.

Our epoxy resins of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system are resistant to almost all chemicals after complete chemical curing. However, given the wide range of chemicals, we recommend conducting spot tests in advance to verify compatibility with our ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system. Please note that the resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system might get matte when washed with harsh chemicals. It is possible to repolish matte resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system any time after curing. Alternatively, you can apply our 2K PU Topcoat on top of epoxy resin to regive it a glossy finish.

Epoxy resin is not classified as hazardous to health according to the GHS08 standard for REACH compliance and is non-toxic under the GHS06 standard. Our resins of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system are solvent-free and odourless. However, we strongly recommend wearing an FFP2 mask and nitrile gloves during handling the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system. Once fully cured, our resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system is safe for contact with food. Please note that cutting on the resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system may result in micro-particles remaining on your utensils.

Our epoxy resins of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system are resistant to most chemicals and acids, including those commonly found in food. However, it is possible that components of the cured ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system that are not intended for consumption could be dissolved by acids or similar substances.

Epoxy resin is not classified as hazardous to health according to the GHS08 standard for REACH compliance and is non-toxic under the GHS06 standard. You can use our epoxy resin from the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system to make some aquarium decors. Please wait until full chemical curing of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system before putting the resin in your aquarium. We do not recommend building the aquarium itself out of resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system. 

Step 1: Preparation
Have all materials and tools ready and make sure that the epoxy resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system is at room temperature and that the environment in which you are working is clean and the temperature is around 70°F before starting your river table.

Step 2: Build the mold of your river table
You start by making a mold in the desired dimensions of the epoxy resin table. For this you need four smooth wooden strips and a wooden plate as molded parts. Then you stick the tape on all parts. Make sure that the tape does not overlap. Glue silicone on the edges of the moldings and screw the parts together. Let the silicone cure. Then spray the mold evenly with our release agent spray and spread it with a cloth. Then place the wooden planks of the same height in the mold.

Step 3: Priming your river table
Before you start pouring your river table, you should brush the areas of your wooden planks that come into contact with the resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system, as well as the space between the wooden plank where the river will be. with a thin layer of epoxy resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system.
This prevents loss of material and the formation of bubbles. You can calculate which quantities of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system you need with our quantity calculator or by telling me the dimension and height you wish to pour.
For the primer layer on your river table, we recommend a layer thickness of 1/16“ made with the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system. Weigh the resin and hardener of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system in the correct ratio and mix the components with a stirrer. Then apply the primer layer of ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system laterally to the inner sides of the wooden planks of your river table with a brush. Pour the rest of the primer of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system onto the substrate between the wooden planks of your river table. The primer layer between your river table planks with the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system should be 1/16“. This prevents air chambers and bubbles. Allow the primer layer made with the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system to cure before continuing with the main coat of your river table.

Step 4: Pouring your river table
Once the primer made with the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system has cured, you can mix the epoxy resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system for the main pouring. Now you can mix in the dyes or pigments in addition to the resin and hardener of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system. You can control the intensity by adding more or less color pigment onto your epoxy resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system. Mix the resin, hardener of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system and pigments exactly as specified and pour over a stirring rod between the wooden planks. Make sure to not exceed the maximum pouring height of the epoxy resin system that you are using. Allow the resin to cure completely in the mold.

Step 5: Sealing and Polishing
Remove the mold by unscrewing all the screws and cutting through the silicone with a cutter. Then knock out all mold parts with a hammer. Now you can sand, polish and seal the tabletop. You will need either a polishing machine, such as a random orbital sander with the appropriate attachments, or a sanding block and wet sandpaper and some water. You will also need a polishing paste. Put on the fine dust mask and start sanding from the coarsest to the finest grain. If you work with wet sandpaper, remember to water it from time to time. When you are finished with the 3000 grits, wipe the table once. Now you can continue with the polishing of the epoxy resin of the ECO or PRO series. Apply the polishing paste to the machine attachment or a wipe. Polish the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system with little pressure in circular movements. When the desired gloss level is reached, you are finished. Now screw on the table legs to your river table. As a final sealant you can now apply oil, varnish or wax as a sealant on your river table. If you want an even more durable surface, we recommend applying a layer of matte polyurethane resin on your river table. Let the sealant cure before using the epoxy table for the first time.

To sand the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system, start with a P100 grit sandpaper and gradually work your way up to P3000 grit. If you want an even smoother finish, you can continue sanding your epoxy of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system up to P10,000 grit, but avoid skipping any grits between stages. Each sanding stage needs to be fully completed, meaning that all marks or scratches left by the previous grit should be removed on your epoxy resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system. Skipping a stage may result in haze or unevenness on the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system.

There is no exact rule for when a sanding stage is finished, as it depends on factors like the sanding speed, whether you're sanding dry or wet, and the surface hardness. After each sanding stage, be sure to dust off the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system and spray it with a silicone remover. Then, use a light to carefully check the surface and see if there are any areas that still need extra sanding.

Please note that the epoxy resin must be fully chemically cured before sanding.

Additionally, here are some helpful tips for sanding epoxy of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system:

Wet sanding: For a finer finish, wet sanding of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system is recommended. This helps to reduce dust, prevent clogging, and minimize heat buildup. It also creates a smoother, more polished surface.

Work in sections: Sand in small sections to ensure uniformity and check frequently with a light to identify areas that may need more attention.

Keep the surface cool: Overheating can cause the resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system to soften and become gummy. To avoid this, sand in short bursts and let the surface cool down between each session.

Clean the surface regularly: Dust can interfere with the sanding process. Use a microfibre cloth or tack cloth to clean the surface after each sanding stage.

Wear protective gear: Always wear a dust mask or respirator, goggles, and gloves to protect yourself from dust and resin particles during sanding.

The density of our epoxy resin systems — the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system — is approximately 9.2 lb/gal. Therefore, to calculate the volume in gallons, multiply the weight in pounds of your ECO system, PRO system, or PRO+ system by 0.11. Conversely, if you wish to determine the required weight of ECO PRO or PRO+ in pounds based on a specific volume in gallons, multiply the volume in gallons by 9.2.

In principle, applying epoxy resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system to waxed or oiled surfaces is feasible. However, it is essential that these materials are fully absorbed and dried prior to application of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system. We highly recommend conducting a small test pour in advance to verify compatibility of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system and ensure optimal results.

The residual moisture in wood should not exceed 12% before applying the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system. The residual moisture in concrete should not exceed 3% when applying the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system.

Building a frame for a river table is a crucial step in creating a sturdy and well-formed piece. Here's a step-by-step guide to constructing the frame:

Materials Needed to build a river table frame:
Wood for side panels (e.g., plywood or MDF)
Thin particleboard or MDF (for the base)
EPODEX release tape
EPODEX release agent spray
Silicone sealant
Screws or nails
Wood glue (optional)
Saw (to cut wood)
Drill and screwdriver
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Design and Measure:

Determine the dimensions of your river table, including the length, width, and thickness of the river section.
Make sure to leave some margin around the edges to prevent resin from spilling over the sides of the formwork.
Build the Sides:

Cut the wood panels to the appropriate height for the sides of the formwork. This will be the boundary that holds the resin in place.
If you want a thicker resin pour, ensure that the height of the side panels is enough to contain the resin (typically, the sides should be about 2”-4” taller than the expected resin thickness).
Attach the side panels together using screws or nails, forming a rectangular or square box frame.
Prepare the Bottom:

Cut a thin piece of particleboard or MDF to the size of the base of the formwork. This will be the surface on which the wood slab sits.
Place this board on a flat, level surface to ensure your resin cures evenly.
Seal the Edges:

Apply silicone sealant to the edges of the formwork, particularly where the side panels meet the base. This ensures that no resin leaks out during the pouring process.
Let the silicone cure fully before proceeding.
Apply Release Tape:

Apply EPODEX release tape to the inside of the formwork, especially along the edges where the resin will meet the sides of the frame. This will prevent the epoxy resin from bonding with the formwork and allow for easy removal after curing.
Spray with Release Agent:

After applying the release tape, spray the surface with EPODEX release agent to further ensure that the resin does not stick to the formwork.
Test the Formwork:

Before pouring the epoxy resin, it is a good idea to do a test run with a small amount of resin to check for leaks or issues with the formwork.
Place the Wood Slabs:

Position the live edge wood slabs or your desired tabletop material into the formwork. Make sure they are properly aligned and level.
Pour the Epoxy Resin:

Once the formwork is prepared, you can begin the process of mixing and pouring your epoxy resin into the mold. Ensure you pour slowly to avoid creating air bubbles.
Additional Tips:
Levelling: Make sure the entire formwork is level, especially when using resin with a river section, as this helps ensure an even cure.
Ventilation: Work in a well-ventilated area when applying epoxy resin, as fumes can be harmful.
Cleaning: Clean up any spills immediately to avoid damage to the formwork or surfaces.

In principle, you can embed photos, puzzles, flowers or concert tickets with epoxy resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system. However, it is essential to assess compatibility in advance, as these items may be made from various materials, which could lead to color degradation or smudging when embed into epoxy resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system. We recommend pre-sealing the surface with a transparent acrylic spray in two layers to ensure optimal results.

The optimal storage temperature for the ECO series ranges from 10°C to 85°F, while for the PRO series, it is between 60°F and 85°F. The ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system must be securely closed and stored in a dark environment to maintain their quality and effectiveness. The epoxy resin can be stored for up to one year before opening and for up to six months after opening, provided it is stored under the recommended conditions.

The waiting times between layers depend on the epoxy resin system you are using. You can find all relevant information, including waiting times, for each resin system under the "Learn More" button on the respective product pages. Generally, the next layer can be poured once the first layer is no longer tacky.

Determining the optimal time for pattern creation in the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system requires considering several factors.

In summary, the resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system should reach a consistency similar to that of liquid honey when drawing patterns, ensuring that the pigments no longer settle at the bottom.

Once fully cured, your epoxy resin project made with the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system can be easily planed and turned. The curing time varies depending on the system used. For the ECO and PRO systems, the typical curing time is 7 days. Please note that curing times may vary due to temperature fluctuations.

For optimal results, we recommend using a metal blade when cutting the resin.

Note: The resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system can only be polished after it has fully chemically cured.

Step 1: Clean the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system After sanding, ensure the surface is free of any dust or debris. Use a microfibre cloth or clean water to wipe down the surface thoroughly.

Step 2: Apply EPODEX Polish

Use a clean, soft cloth or a polishing pad to apply a small amount of EPODEX Polish to the surface of ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system.
Be careful not to use too much polish, as this can result in a milky appearance of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system. Start with a small amount, work it in, and reapply as necessary.
Gently spread the polish over the surface in circular motions. Avoid excessive pressure, as the goal is to work the polish into the resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system without causing damage.
Step 3: Buff the Surface

Once the polish is applied, use a soft, clean microfibre cloth to buff the surface in circular motions. This will help remove any excess polish and achieve a smooth, glossy finish of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system.
For optimal results, repeat the polishing process until you achieve the desired level of shine.
Step 4: Final Cleaning

After polishing, wipe the surface with a clean cloth to remove any remaining residue. This will leave your epoxy resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system with a brilliant, glossy finish.
Important Notes:

Always work in a well-ventilated area.
Wear gloves to protect your hands during the polishing process.

The semi-transparent dye consists of two pigments: the desired color tone and a white dye. It is the addition of the white dye that creates the semi-transparency effect. By adjusting the amount of white dye, you can control the intensity of the effect to suit your preferences.
Here are the recommendations to achieve the colors seen on our website: 

• Transparent dyes (except white, black, and gray): 1g of dye per 17.5fl.oz. of epoxy. 7g (0.25oz) of dye per gallon of epoxy,
• Transparent white, black, and gray dyes: 1g of dye per 53fl.oz. of epoxy. 2.5g (0.1oz) of dye per gallon of epoxy,
• Semi-transparent dyes (except white): 1g of the desired dye and 0.5g of white dye per 26.5fl.oz. of epoxy. 5g (0.2oz) of the desired dye and 2.5g (0.1oz) of white dye per gallon of epoxy,
• Semi-transparent white: 1g of dye per 17.5fl.oz. of epoxy. 7g (0.25oz) of dye per gallon of epoxy,

The accessories used to mix and apply epoxy resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system can generally be cleaned immediately after use. Stir sticks and mixing cups can be wiped clean with a paper towel, and any cured ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system resin in the mixing container can be squeezed out.

For brushes and foam rollers used with the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system, we recommend cleaning them promptly after use with acetone for optimal results.

It is important to note that the subfloor must be professionally prepared before applying epoxy resin. Specifically, floating screed should never have a direct connection to the wall in order to prevent expansion. For this reason, we recommend installing "edge insulation strips" when laying the screed or levelling compound. When processing the epoxy resin, ensure that the edge joints remain unsealed. Silicone would be an ideal material for this purpose, as it can easily be separated from the epoxy resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system if necessary.

It is important to find the right time to remove the masking tape. The epoxy resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system should have already reacted and no longer be so liquid that it can still flow when you peel off the tape. If the epoxy resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system starts to "pull threads," these can simply be cut off with a utility knife while still in a soft state.

Epoxy resin floors made with the ECO system are classified with a slip resistance category of R9, which is comparable to standard tiles. For applications requiring a non-slip surface, micro glass beads can be added to the PU sealant.

We recommend incorporating 1% micro glass beads by weight into the PU resin and applying the mixture thinly with a foam roller for an even finish. This process ensures enhanced slip resistance while maintaining a durable and professional appearance.

Cracking epoxy resin can have different causes, for example, overheating, unstable substrate, etc. The questions below can help us identify the reason why the epoxy resin cracked:

Which epoxy resin did you use?
How thick was the layer?
What was the room temperature when you applied the resin? What temperature was it during curing?
How did you mix the resin?
How much did you mix at once?
How long did the resin sit in the mixing container before being poured into the mold?
Was the resin fully cured within the specified time?
For River Tables: What type of wood did you use, and was it sealed?
Epoxy resin can crack if it overheats or if too much stress is placed on it during curing. Overheating can happen if the resin sits in the mixing container for too long, if the pour height is too high, or if the room is too warm. The reaction between the resin and hardener generates heat, and if any of these factors cause too much heat to build up, the resin can overheat. Overheating can also cause other issues, like:

Uneven surface
Yellowing
Bubbling
Stress can also occur, particularly in River Tables, if the wood hasn't been fully sealed.

If cracks have formed, they can be filled with epoxy resin, and once cured, only a very faint hairline will remain, which will be hardly noticeable.

Bubbles inside the cured epoxy resin can have different causes, it can be a sign that the resin overheated, that the substrate wasn’t sealed properly, etc. The questions below can help us identify the epoxy resin has bubble in it:

Which epoxy resin did you use?
How thick is the layer?
What was the room temperature when you poured the resin? What was the temperature during curing?
How did you mix the resin?
How long did the resin sit in the mixing cup before you poured it?
Was your project fully cured in the time suggested?
For River Tables: What type of wood did you use, and was it sealed?
For floors, countertops, etc.: What is the surface made from?
For other casts with inclusions: Did you add anything to the resin? If so, what?

Bubbles can happen if the resin gets too hot, or if it's too cold, which makes it thicker and stops the defoamer from working properly. Bubbles can also form if the resin is poured onto a porous surface or if porous materials are added to the resin. To prevent this, we recommend sealing the surface or objects first with a thin layer of resin.

If the resin hasn't fully hardened and is still runny or gel-like, applying some heat can help remove the bubbles. Depending on the project, you can gently warm the underside with a blow dryer to soften the resin, or use a heat gun, lighter, or gas torch over the surface until the bubbles pop.

Just be careful not to stay in one spot for too long, as this can cause the surface to burn or become uneven.

If the resin is already cured, you’ll need to sand to open the bubbles and reapply a new layer to fill the opened bubbles.

Our material is carefully measured and automatically filled into the container to ensure precise quantities. However, it’s common for some material to remain on the edges of the container after pouring. The larger the container, the more material tends to stick. Additionally, thicker materials flow more slowly, and viscosity increases with colder temperatures.

To achieve the best results, we recommend allowing the material to reach room temperature (around 70°F) before use, rather than applying it immediately after delivery. This will ensure smoother handling and optimal performance.

Craters inside the cured epoxy resin can have different causes, it can be a sign that the resin was applied too thinly, that the substrate wasn’t sealed properly, etc. The questions below can help us identify the epoxy resin has craters in it:

What is the substrate made of?
How was the surface prepared?
Was the surface pre-treated before applying the epoxy resin?
How much epoxy resin was used, and how many square metres were covered?
Was the surface level?
For floors:

Were nail shoes worn while walking on the epoxy?
Craters can form if too little epoxy resin was used (causing curing problems) or if the substrate is very porous and absorbs too much resin.
Craters can also happen if nail shoes were worn, as they can pierce the primer, causing holes that let the resin seep through.

The good news is, fixing craters is simple. We recommend applying another layer of at least 1/16“.

Yellowing epoxy resin can have different causes, it can be a sign that the resin overheated, etc. The questions below can help us identify the epoxy resin is yellow:

If the yellowing happened right after curing:

Which epoxy resin did you use?
How thick is the layer of resin?
What was the room temperature when you poured the resin and during curing?
How did you mix the resin?
How long did the resin sit in the mixing cup before being poured?
Was your project fully cured within the suggested time?

If the yellowing happened after some time: 
All epoxy resins will yellow over time, but some are more resistant than others. Our PRO series is UV-stabilised, so it’s less likely to yellow than our ECO series, but no resin is completely UV-proof. If yellowing happened after curing, the resin was exposed to UV light.

Yellowing can happen if the resin gets too hot, causing immediate yellowing, or if it is exposed to UV light over time, which causes long-term yellowing. This can even happen indoors, as sunlight coming through a window can cause yellowing.

Please note that all our epoxy resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system shrink by about 1%. In larger projects, such as a river table, this shrinkage can be more noticeable. When using wooden molds, the resin tends to sink at the corners. With silicone molds, the edges often rise slightly, and the centre may sink a little. This is a natural part of the chemical process and unfortunately can’t be avoided, but it can be fixed by sanding or by repouring a new layer of epoxy resin. 

To achieve a good glow with the Glow-in-the-Dark pigments, we recommend using a layer thickness of at least 3/8“. The thicker the layer, the stronger the glow. This is also the reason why our glow-in-the-dark pigments aren't available for countertops and floors.

Curing problem with epoxy resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system can have different reasons. The questions below can help us identify the epoxy resin has curing problem:

Which epoxy resin did you use?
How long ago did you pour it?
How thick is the layer you applied?
What was the room temperature when you poured and left the resin to cure? (Did the temperature drop overnight?)
How did you mix the resin? How did you check that all parts were fully combined?
Can you send us pictures of the containers?
If the resin hasn’t fully cured, it could be because of one of these reasons:

• The mixing ratio was wrong
• The layer is too thin
• The room or surface was too cold
• The wrong product was used, or it wasn't mixed enough
  If the resin is still reacting, try increasing the room temperature to help it cure. If it hasn’t changed after 24-48 hours, the sticky material will need to be removed.

Partial curing problem with epoxy resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system can have different reasons. The questions below can help us identify the epoxy resin has partial curing problem:

Which epoxy resin did you use?
When did you pour the resin?
How thick was the layer you applied?
What was the room temperature when you poured and let the resin cure? (Did the temperature drop overnight?)
How did you mix the resin? How did you check that all components were fully combined?
How many times did you mix the entire amount?
Did you transfer the resin into a new mixing container and mix it again?
Did you scrape the bottom and sides of the mixing container to make sure all the material was used?
Could you send us pictures of the containers?
If the resin hasn’t fully cured after the recommended time, the following reasons could be the cause: 

• The resin wasn’t mixed thoroughly, so the components didn’t fully combine.
• The surface is uneven, and some areas are too thin, which can prevent proper curing.
• The wrong mixing ratio was used.
• The resin wasn’t transferred or scraped from the edges and bottom of the container, leaving unmixed material.
  If there are sticky areas, these can be scraped off. After that, clean the areas with acetone and let the solvent evaporate for a few hours. Then, sand the area, remove any dust, and re-coat.

It is possible to apply epoxy resin on porous surfaces, but this requires preparation. Absorbent surfaces must be primed many times over to achieve a satisfactory result. We recommend priming with epoxy resin from the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system and not with PRIMER 1K on very absorbent surfaces. We recommend proceeding in many layers and plan more epoxy than normally recommended. Apply as many priming layers of epoxy resin as required to seal the absorbent surface. 

Yes, you can apply epoxy resin from the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system on wood. We recommend priming the wood before applying the epoxy resin. Some wood requires more than 1 priming layer. The surface must be sealed before pouring. If the wood absorbs all the resin from the priming layer, apply another primer layer, let it cure and then proceed with the main pour. 

Do not use 1K Primer when working with epoxy resin from the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system in transparent colors, semi-transparent or clear. The 1K primer is colored which will be visible under the transparent or semi-transparent epoxy resin.

For clear, transparent colors, semi-transparent colors, we recommend priming with a thin layer of same epoxy resin used for the casting. Depending on the substrate, 1 or more layers of epoxy resin might be required to prime. 

When the processing temperature and the max pouring height are respected the epoxy resin from the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system do not get hotter than 140°F.

When the resin overheats (the processing temperature and/or max. pouring height aren’t respected) the epoxy resin from the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system can easily reach temperature over 200°F. This causes the resin to crack, yellow, and have bubbles.

After complete chemical curing our epoxy resins for the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system are heat resistant up to 140°F. Increasing the heat resistance by slowly heating the cured resin is possible. To do so, the resin must be place on a stable surface to prevent it from bending and deforming. Heat the resin until it gets soft and let it cool back down completely. Repeat the process by slowly increasing the heating temperature (1. 150°F, then 160°F, 170°F etc) With this technic it is possible to increase the heat resistance to about 180°F. For larger pieces which can’t be easily heated, it is possible to apply a heat-resistant topcoat such as our PU resin which is heat resistant up to 180°F.

No, the WB PIGMENTs aren’t compatible with the epoxy resin from the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system.

WB PIGMENTs are included in some Countertops and Flooring epoxy resin set to color the 1K PRIMER.

Yes, LED can be added into the epoxy resin from the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system. We recommend adding it to clear non-dyed resin, to transparent colored, or semi-transparent colored epoxy resin.

Please note that on thicker layer, we recommend adding fewer drop-in dyes as the colors look darker on thicker layer. We recommend adding the dye little by little, the color of the uncured resin remains the same after curing.

Do not use metallic pigment, RAL color paste, Neon, or glow-in-the-dark pigment when working with LED. These pigments are opaque, and the LED won’t be visible.

To apply epoxy resin for projects like jewellery, bookmarks, lamps, or other crafts:

1. Surface preparation (if applicable): If you're pouring resin onto a surface like wood, or coating a table or a painting, apply a thin layer of epoxy resin as a primer to avoid material loss and blistering. Mix the resin (A-component) and hardener (B-component) thoroughly in a 2:1 ratio until streak-free. Use a brush or roller to apply the primer evenly and let it cure completely.
2. Prepare the resin mixture: Mix the resin and hardener thoroughly, scraping the sides and bottom of the cup to ensure no unmixed material remains. Transfer the mixture to a clean cup and mix again.
3. Pour or cast the resin: Immediately pour the mixed resin into your mold or onto the prepared surface. Work quickly to avoid overheating the mixture in the cup.
4. Avoid moisture during curing: Keep the resin away from water or high humidity during curing to prevent imperfections like white patches. Allow the resin to fully cure, which may take up to 7/14days days depending on the conditions.

You should wait until the resin has gelled. This should be monitored closely, and when you notice that the resin has a honey-like texture and is thick, you should remove the tape from the sides, and then the resin will flow down to the edges. Just be careful - protect the floors and furniture that you don’t want to get stained with resin.

For the ECO system, at a temperature of 70°F, after 6 hours; for the PRO system, after 12 hours; for PRO+, after 48-72 hours.

• If you are using pigments and dyes for epoxy resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system, here are the percentage amounts for coloring resin and hardener (The amount in grams is given for 1kg of resin and hardener):
  Powder pigments (Metallic, Neon and Glow in the dark): 1g of pigment per 2fl.oz. of epoxy.70g (2.5oz) of pigment per gallon of epoxy,
• Transparent dyes (except white, black, and gray): 1g of dye per 17.5fl.oz. of epoxy. 7g (0.25oz) of dye per gallon of epoxy,
• Transparent white, black, and gray dyes: 1g of dye per 53fl.oz. of epoxy. 2.5g (0.1oz) of dye per gallon of epoxy,
• Semi-transparent dyes (except white): 1g of the desired dye and 0.5g of white dye per 26.5fl.oz. of epoxy. 5g (0.2oz) of the desired dye and 2.5g (0.1oz) of white dye per gallon of epoxy,
• Semi-transparent white: 1g of dye per 17.5fl.oz. of epoxy. 7g (0.25oz) of dye per gallon of epoxy,
• Solid color: 1g of dye per 3fl.oz. of epoxy. 40g (1.5oz) of dye per gallon of epoxy),
• Glitter pigments/flakes: 1g of dye per 3fl.oz. of epoxy. 40g (1.5oz) of dye per gallon of epoxy

It is important to not add more liquid Dye than recommended! Adding too much liquid into the resin and hardener mixture can cause curing problem. Do not add more RAL EP Color Paste (pigment paste solid color) than recommended. Do not add too much drop-in dyes as well.

This is called amine blush—a reaction between uncured epoxy resin and moisture/water. It can also occur at low room temperatures, high humidity level and in very thin layers. If the resin has never fully cured, there is a risk of amine blush even months after the epoxy has been applied.

When a water-based coating (like a painting) is sealed with epoxy, the remaining moisture in the paint can cause amine blush. This can also happen on surfaces where the resin has been applied over a water-based primer that is not completely dry.

Let the resin cure completely and first try to remove the amine-blush with white vinegar. This might leave the surface matt. If the amine-blush can’t be removed with white vinegar, you’ll need to sand it to remove it.

we recommend applying a sealer or another layer on top of the epoxy once you remove the amine-blush. Applying another layer or a sealer will prevent the resin from getting amine-blush again.

Cured epoxy resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system can only be removed by sanding. If the resin is absorbed into the substrate, and you wish to remove it completely, you will also need to remove part of the substrate where the resin is absorbed.

It is possible to scrap off liquid resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system and remove any sticky area with acetone.

You can use acetone as a solvent to clean your tools effectively after using the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system.

It is possible to let the epoxy resin from the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system cure in the mixing cup. After curing the epoxy can be easily removed from the cup by tapping the bottom to pop the resin out.

We are having different container sizes and always try to send each product in the biggest container-size possible. However, sometimes certain sizes are getting out of stock. In this case you will get the product in smaller containers so that you get  the purchased product as soon as possible.

All orders are packed with the biggest size bottle/jerry can be available to achieve this quantity. It is not possible to change the size of the container for your order. If you wish to receive your order in smaller quantities, we kindly ask that you order several small packages. We know that the price of many small quantities is higher than the price of one large quantity and we can’t offer a discount on an order with many small quantities and smaller packaging cost more money to produce and ship. The cost of each bottle and labels must be taken into consideration. Furthermore, smaller containers often do not fit into 1 parcel which also increases the price of shipping which we are paying for. 

We recommend cleaning the cured epoxy with mild surfactants.

We do not recommend using acid-based, chlorine-containing cleaners, or alkalis as they can mattify the surface or even degrade it.

The viscosity of ECO is 700cP, of PRO 530cP, of PRO+ 350cP.

The SHORE hardness after curing (D1) of our flooring epoxy kit (ECO) is 87, of the PRO epoxy resin it is 82, of the PRO+ is 80.

If the epoxy resin from the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system get hotter than 140°F, it will deform.

We recommend using coasters or a mat when drinking out of a hot mug or eating out of a hot plate.

Yes, you can do a candle holder out of our epoxy resin from the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system. Please note that the resin will soften the few first times that you are using the candle holder. This is normal, do not apply pressure or the resin will deform. Let the resin cool down so that it doesn’t deform. After using it a few times the resin heat resistance will increase, and the resin will eventually no longer soften when the candle holder is used. 

We do not recommend putting your epoxy resin from the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system in the dishwasher. 

We do not recommend putting your epoxy resin from the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system in the microwave.

Even 1°F over the recommended processing temperature can lead the resin to overheat. If you can’t have the room temperature at 70°F, we recommend that you do not pour a layer close to the max pouring height.

Yes, but we recommend pouring the pro+ in layers if the layer thickness is over 2”. 

Unfortunately, we do not sell the individual epoxy resin components.

 No, you must use the right mixing ratio. Using another mixing ratio will cause the resin to not cure. 

No, you can’t put more hardener than recommended. Adding more hardener will not result in a faster curing, it will cause the resin to not cure. It is important to always respect the mixing ratio.

Adding any thickening agent such as microglass beads will result in a not transparent resin. The only way to have a thicker resin but it transparent is to let the resin set before using. Be careful when using this technic, you must watch your resin closely as it can quickly overheat. Mix it and stay close until the resin has the desired consistency. 

No, we do not recommend working with the epoxy from the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system when the humidity level is over 60%. It is important to have a humidity level under 60% until the resin is fully cured. If the humidity level is too high, it can cause whitening of the resin also called amine-blush.

Yes, you can use our products inside without problem. It is important to follow the recommended temperature and maximum pouring height so that the resin doesn’t overheat. When used properly the resin doesn’t smell nor fume. All our epoxy resin from the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system are solvent-free and not dangerous to health.

It is important to not open window when the resin is uncured. The humidity and temperature change from outside can cause whitening of the resin also called amine-blush.

Yes, to have a 3lbs mixture of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system, you need to use a 2 to 1 ratio. This means that for 3lbs total weight, you need 2lbs resin A-component, and 1lbs hardener B-component.

There is 2 ways to proceed.

1. Sand between the layers. Be careful to wait for curing and vacuum up the sanding dust before pouring.
2. Apply the next layer while the previous layer isn’t completely cured. You need to wait until the first layer has the consistency of a liquid-gel. But be careful with this method. The layers will react with each other, pour each layer with a thickness inferior to the max pouring height and lower the room temperature. 
   If you pour the layers and do not sand or pour too late and miss the right time to pour, the line will only be visible when looking perpendicularly (90°)

No, only polish at the end when the last layers are chemically cured if you wish to polish. 

No, we do not recommend our wax for the epoxy resin. Our wax is made to seal chalk paint. For epoxy resin, we recommend our Polish.

We recommend using the polish on the resin part of the table. For the wood, we recommend using an oil for wood. 

To remove these marks, you can sand the resin without any problem. Start with P100 grit and gradually sand up to P3,000 grit. If desired, you can also sand up to P10,000 grit until you achieve the desired effect, without skipping grit levels. Each sanding step must be completed, meaning that any damage caused by the previous grit size must be eliminated. If a sanding step with a specific grit size is skipped, some opacity may remain.
It is not possible to generally determine when sanding is complete, as it depends on many factors, such as the rotation speed, whether sanding is done dry or wet, and the "hardness" of the surface. We recommend dusting off the surface after each sanding and spraying it with an anti-silicone product. If you then shine a light over it, you will clearly see where further work is needed.

If your epoxy resin gets milky and matte after sanding and polishing it means that either the sanding wasn’t done properly or too much polish was applied.

It is important to use only a small amount of polish at a time. Take an amount about the size of a dime and work it into the surface. If the table needs more polishing, apply another small amount. Never use too much polish at once, as this makes it difficult to apply and can leave the surface looking milky and unclear, rather than mirror-like.

The resin from our ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system have a glossy finish. If you want an even glossier finish, you can sand and polish.

No, never polish between the layers.

When sanding between epoxy layers, it's recommended to use grit between P180 and P320. This range provides enough surface roughness for proper adhesion without creating deep scratches that could show through the next layer.

• For thick layers or structural bonding: P180–P220 grit works well.
• For clear, glossy finishes: P240–P320 grit is ideal to avoid visible scratches.
  After sanding, always clean the surface thoroughly to remove dust and debris before applying the next layer.

We do not have a white epoxy floor or countertop in store because the resin will yellow eventually and the floor or countertop will not stay white for long. All the sets available under our epoxy resin ECO system countertop and flooring are colors that hides the yellowing.

We also do not recommend using the PRO System to do a white floor or countertop. Yes the PRO system contains UV additive to help with yellowing but yellowing will still occur. We do not recommend white epoxy floor.

We recommend sanding to a grit of P240-P320 between the layers. A coarser grit could still be visible between the layers. 

It is important to use a glossy silicone form if you wish to obtain a glossy finish. Using a matte silicone form will result in the epoxy being matte.

If your epoxy is matte, you can polish it to achieve a glossy finish. If the form is irregular and polishing it is difficult, you can also apply a clear acrylic spray to make it glossy. Make sure to wait the complete chemical curing before polishing or applying an acrylic spray. 

The ECO A-component resin is compatible with the ECO B-component.

The PRO A-component resin is compatible with the PRO B-component and PRO+ B-component.

No, there is no PRO+ A component resin only a PRO A-component resin.

We do not recommend mixing ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system in 1 pour. It is possible to apply a layer of PRO System on top of a layer of ECO system. But we do not recommend mixing ECO and PRO together in one pour.

No, we do not recommend pouring large objects over the maximum pouring height of any ECO or PRO series epoxy resin.

Yes, you can mix pigment together in epoxy. Please note that both the metallic pigment and the RAL colors are opaque and they can hide each other in epoxy resin. We recommend testing on a small quantity of epoxy resin to find the ratio that works for you.

Yes, you can mix different metallic pigments together in epoxy. We recommend testing on a small quantity of epoxy to find out the ratio that works for the effect you are looking for.

Yes, you can mix different color paste together inside epoxy.

Our Drop-in dye follow the theory of colors. For example, mixing yellow and blue will result in green. Please note that adding white will give a semi-transparent color.

Yes, you can mix metallic pigment and drop-in dyes inside epoxy.

Please note that the metallic pigments are opaque at 1,5% and that it might cover the drop-in. We recommend testing on a small quantity to find out the ratio that works for you. 

Yes, in theory you could but this is not necessary. We have all colors available in Drop-in transparent dye and all colors available in RAL color paste.

The color pastes are opaque and will hide the drop-in dye. We recommend choosing a RAL color of your choice instead of mixing RAL and drop-in. 

Neon pigments are not glowing in the dark. These are only very intensive colors known as neon.

To achieve different colors separately, you will need to prepare many mixtures. You can also mix a large quantity of transparent resin and hardener and dye part of it in different colors. If you do not want the color to mix, you’ll need to wait until the resin has a gel-like consistency before pouring it. Be careful when using this technic, you’ll need to watch your resin closely ot make sure it doesn’t overheat. 

It is important to always have the right temperature when working epoxy resin. Make sure that your working space has constantly the right working temperature for epoxy resin. The temperature must be constant day and night.

It is important when working on floors with our epoxy resin floor set ECO that the floor has a temperature of 70°F. Please take into consideration that when the room temperature is about 70°F, tiles will be colder. 

Yes, we recommend removing the tree bark or any looses pieces of wood before using it in a river table. Leaving the tree bark or looses pieces of wood, will compromise the bond between the resin and the wood.

To apply ECO resin for floor to a wooden floor, make sure that the floor is levelled and has no cracks between the wooden floor. The epoxy resin kit ECO is applied very thinly and can take little bit movement. If the floor is moving a lot, we recommend stabilising it first with ECO epoxy resin and fibreglass mat.

Yes, epoxy resin ECO flooring set can be applied to a vinyl floor. It is also possible to add a vinyl sticker before applying the epoxy ECO to achieve what is known as a 3D floor.

No, epoxy resin can’t be applied to PVC floor, The PVC must be removed before applying the ECO resin for floors.

Epoxy doesn’t stick well to PVC but it is hard to remove the epoxy resin from the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system from a rigid mold without breaking it. If you don’t mind breaking your mold to unmold the resin, you can use the PVC mold with our separating agent spray to pour our ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system.

We do not recommend putting epoxy resin ECO for laminated floors. We recommend removing the laminated floor before using our ECO resin for floors. If you wish to only protect the laminated floor with a thin coat of transparent resin, you recommend that you look at our PU resin available in matte or glossy.

Yes, almost anything can be added to the epoxy resin ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system. Only some plastics do not stick to the epoxy resin ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system. The object that you want to include should be able to resist to temperature of at least 140°F as this is the temperature that the resin ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system will reach while normally curing. If your object is fragile or very porous, we recommend sealing it with a thin layer of epoxy resin from the ECO or PRO series. If your object could discolor (such as real flower), we recommend sealing with a clear acrylic spray before adding it into the epoxy from the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system. 

When doing a river table, it is important to have the right support under it to prevent it from deforming. If your table deforms, take the table feet out, put your river table on an even surface and heat the resin to soften it. Put weight on the epoxy resin river table to make it straight again and let it cool down in that position. Once the river table is straight again put the feet again and add some support to prevent it from bending again.

If your epoxy resin project made with the ECO or PRO series is deforming heat it, to soften it, bring it in the right form and let it cool down in that position. Add support if needed to prevent it from deforming again. 

You need to prime the wood that will touch the river and the river space of your river table to prevent material lost through absorption and reduce the tension on the epoxy during the main pour of the river table. If you do not prime your river table, the wood will put tension to the curing resin of the ECO or PRO series that will lead to cracking.

We do not recommend working with epoxy resin form the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system outside as you can’t control the temperature and humidity level outdoors. We recommend using epoxy resin from the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system indoors, let it cure in a controlled environment and then bring it outside if you wish.

All our resins from the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system (ECO System, PRO System, PRO+ System) are self-levelling and not water based.

Yes, you can mix different color paste together. Our RAL EP color paste follow the theory of colors. For example, mixing yellow and blue will result in green. 

The ECO serie is the ECO System.
The PRO serie is the PRO System and the PRO+ System.

Component A ECO Resin and PRO Resin come in 16fl.oz., 32fl.oz., 64fl.oz., 96fl.oz., 1.25gal, 2.5gal bottles and jerry cans.
Component B ECO hardener, ECO+ hardener, PRO hardener, come in 8fl.oz., 16fl.oz., 32fl.oz., 64fl.oz., 96fl.oz., 1.25gal, 2.5gal bottles and jerry cans.

The ECO system is the Epoxy Resin ECO A-component resin and the Hardener B-component ECO.

The PRO system is the Epoxy Resin PRO A-component resin and the Hardener B-component PRO.

A 3/8“ layer of ECO system needs 6h at 70°F before you can apply a new layer of ECO. If the layer of ECO is less than 3/8“ or the temperature is less than 70°F, the time before you can apply a new layer of ECO will be longer. 

A thickness of 1/16” of ECO System has a gel-time of 120minutes at 70°F.
A thickness of 3/8“of ECO System has a gel-time of 25minutes at 70°F.

The ECO system can be touches, and walked on (mechanical hardening) after about 20-24h at 70°F. The ECO System is completely chemically cured after 7 days at 70°F. The ECO system is sensitive to water and scratches until the full chemical curing of 7days. If the temperature is below 70°F, the ECO System needs longer to cure.

The minimum working temperature (substrate temperature, resin temperature, hardener temperature, and room temperature) as well, as the curing temperature with the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system is 60°F. We do not recommend using the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system under 60°F. The temperature when using the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system should always be minimum 60°F during both processing and curing.

The recommended working temperature (substrate temperature, resin temperature, hardener temperature, and room temperature) as well, as the curing temperature with the ECO System and PRO System is 70°F. We do not recommend using the ECO and PRO System at more than 70°F. If you must work the ECO and PRO system at 71-72°F, never pour close to the maximum pouring height. 

The minimum layer thickness at 70°F with the ECO system and the PRO System is 1/16“.

The gelling time of the ECO System when pouring a layer of 1/16“at 70°F is 60minutes.

The PRO system is the Epoxy Resin PRO A-component resin and the Hardener B-component PRO+.

The maximum pouring height of the ECO System is 3/8“ at 70°F. 

No, WB PIGMENTs are water-based pigment for paint, varnishes and microcement.
EP Color pastes are RAL color paste for the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system.

The maximum pouring height of the PRO System is 3/4“ at 70°F. 

The minimum layer thickness with the ECO resin for floors, countertop and coatings is 1/16“.

The pot life of the ECO system is 25minutes for 100g(3.5fl.oz.) at 70°F. For larger quantities and higher temperatures, the pot life is shorter. 

The PRO system can be touches, and walked on (mechanical hardening) after about 20-24h at 70°F. The PRO System is completely chemically cured after 7 days at 70°F. The PRO system is sensitive to water and scratches until the full chemical curing of 7days. If the temperature is below 70°F, the PRO System needs longer to cure.

The PRO series has a glossy finish, is Crystal clear, VOC free, bubble free and is UV stabilised. We recommend using the PRO series in transparent clear, white or with colorants.

The pot life of the PRO+ system is 6hours for 22lbs at 70°F. For larger quantities and higher temperatures, the pot life is shorter. 

A 2“ layer of PRO+ system need 48h to 72h at 70°F before you can apply a new layer of PRO+. If the layer of PRO+ are less than 2“ or the temperature is less than 70°F, the time before you can apply a new layer of PRO+ will be longer. 

The gelling time of the PRO+ System when pouring a layer of 1/16“thick at 70°F is 360minutes.

The gelling time of the PRO+ System when pouring a layer between 1/16” and 3/4“ thick at 70°F is 360minutes.

The gelling time of the PRO+ System when pouring a layer between 3/4“ and 2“ thick at 70°F is 240minutes.

The PRO+ system can be touched, and walked on (mechanical hardening) after about 48-72h at 70°F.

The PRO+ System are completely chemically cured after 14 days at 70°F.

The PRO+ system are sensitive to water and scratches until the full chemical curing of 14days.

If the temperature is below 70°F, the PRO+ System need longer to cure.

The recommended working temperature (substrate temperature, resin a-component temperature, hardener b-component temperature, room temperature) when using the PRO+ System with a layer thickness of 2“ of less is 70°F.

The recommended working temperature (substrate temperature, resin a-component temperature, hardener b-component temperature, room temperature) when using the PRO+ System with a layer thickness of more than 2“ but less than 12” on a small area of max 4”x4” is 60°F.

The maximum pouring height of the PRO+ system at 60°F when working on a area of maximum 4“x4“ is 12“.  If the area is bigger than 4“x4“ or the temperature higher than 60°F it is not possible to pour 12“ with the PRO+ System.

The temperature should be constant day and night until full curing of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system.

Alcohol ink can only be used when the layer thickness of maximum ½” with the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system. We recommend using the alcohol ink only in the ECO system or PRO system.

If you want to use the drop-in dyes in a thick layer, we recommend adding the drop-in dye slowly into the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system, the thicker the layer, the less amount of drop-in dye you require. The drop-in dyes specially the black and gray drop-ins look very dark on thicker layers. 

It is possible to add epoxy dyes and pigment from another company into our ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system. If you add pigments are dyes from another company into our ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system, you need to make sure the dyes aren’t water-based and we recommend testing them in a small quantity of the ECO or PRO serie as the color can change after curing. It is better to use our dyes and pigments with our ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system as all our pigments and dyes were tested to make sure they remain the same color after curing.

To achieve an alcohol ink effect, you need to combine a color with the alcohol ink selenit white. Add the colored alcohol ink of your choice to the still liquid the resin-hardener mixture ECO System of PRO System and then add the alcohol ink SELENIT WHITE. The alcohol inks will react with each other creating a unique pattern. The more selenit white ink drops you add to the colored ink drop, the more pronounced and deeper the effect will be.The more selenit white drops you put on the colored alcohol ink drop, the deeper the alcohol ink sink into the resin ECO system or PRO System and the stronger the Alcohol Ink effect is.

No, the transparent drop-in and the alcohol inks aren’t the same thing. The transparent drop-ins give a uniform transparent color to all the resins for the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system. The alcohol inks do not give a uniform color to the ECO system and PRO system, the alcohol ink allows you to achieve a pattern called the petri dish effect.

You can add more powder pigment into the resin-hardener mixture of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system, but it is not necessary. There is no advantages to add more than 1.5% powder pigment into the resin from the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system, except for the glow-in-the-dark where adding more than 1,5% can make it glow more in the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system.

We recommend mixing the epoxy resin for the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system until the mixture is streak-free and homogenous. Make sure to mix the edges and the bottom of your mixing jug where you have the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system. The ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system hardener and resin have different density, and the component sometimes sink to the bottom of the mixing jug. Once your ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system mixture of streak-free pour the mixture of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system in a new mixing jug and mix again. 

No, never put more liquid drop-in dye or ep color paste than recommended into the resin-hardener mixture of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system, it can lead to the resin not curing.

To coat the edges of a table or countertop with our epoxy resin from the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system, start by putting masking tape under the edge to catch any resin drips. We recommend keeping a bit of epoxy resin and hardener mixture of your ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system in a mixing cup and letting it slowly thicken. Watch your epoxy resin from the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system closely, as the epoxy can overheat in the mixing cup. Once the epoxy resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system has reached a gel-like texture (like honey). Apply the gel-like resin-hardener mixture of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system on your edge. Let the edge thicken, remove the masking tape from under the edge before the drips solidify completely.

Cured epoxy resin from the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system is not dangerous and can be trashed with other plastic or at your local recycling centre. For more information on how to dispose of cured epoxy resin, we recommend that you check your local regulations. We recommend mixing unmix ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system and letting it cure before disposing of it. Never pour the components of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system down the drain or in the rainwater. The ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system container can be disposed of at your local recycling centre.

A mask FFP2 is sufficient while working with our ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system, we recommend wearing nitrile gloves while working with our ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system. We do not recommend wearing latex gloves while working with ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system, the epoxy can go through the latex, make sure to wear nitrile gloves while working with the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system. 

Using ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system that have expire can lead to the resin not curing or not curing properly. 

Instructions for Use Nevada Countertop Kit

Start with the Primer 1K

We recommend a room, substrate, and product temperature of approx. 70°F when working with our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
the substrate should be dust-free, clean, and even. Level out holes, unevenness, and slopes in advance with a suitable levelling compound before applying our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Start with Primer 1k when it is supplied in our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Mix the Primer 1k and pour it into a paint tray.
Roll the Primer 1k onto the desired surface with a paint roller.
Allow the primer 1k to dry (approx. 8-12 hours) before applying the ECO system.

Continue with the Main Coat with ECO System

Use our ECO epoxy resin system (resin + hardener) for the main coating.
For the Nevada set Start by planning the quantity of resin (A) and hardener (B) that will be used for each color. To achieve a Nevada result like on our site, plan: 18% PLATINUM SILVER, 18% SAPPHIRE BLUE, 18% BRONZE BROWN, 18% HAVANA BRONZE, 18% PEARL WHITE, 10% SIGNAL WHITE.
To acchieve the Nevada effects, you need to proceed with multiple mixtures. 
Watch the instructional video and plan the colors you will use for each mixture of your Nevada set.
Mix some the resin (A) with the hardener (B) in a ratio of 2:1 (e.g., 64fl.oz. resin: 32fl.oz. hardener).
Pour the clear resin-hardener mixture into several cups and color each cup with one of the colors you want to use in this mixture of Nevada set. We recommend a color proportion of about 1.5% for pigments, e.g., 1g of metallic pigment per 2fl.oz. of epoxy.70g (2.5oz) of pigment per gallon of epoxy resin + hardener ECO system and about 1% for color pastes, e.g., 1g of ep color paste per 3fl.oz. of epoxy. 40g (1.5oz) of dye per gallon of epoxy resin + hardener ECO System.
Pour the pre-mixed colors of your Nevada set into a large cup as shown in the instructional video. Do not re-mix the colors of your Nevada set once they are poured into the same cup.
Pour the cup containing all the colors of your Nevada set onto the surface to be covered. Repeat steps until the resin and hardener have been completely used.
The main coating ECO system can be walked on after approx. 20 hours and ECO is completely chemically cured after approx. 7 days.
Info: Epoxy resin is sensitive to any kind of moisture during curing (risk of amine blush formation, i.e. white patches in the top layer). For this reason, we recommend that you avoid any contact between water and the epoxy until it has cured completely. For thin layers, cold temperatures (ambient, substrate, and resin temperatures below 70°F) and increased humidity, the time until the epoxy resin is fully cured may be extended.

Instructions for Use Ammonit Countertop Kit

Start with the Primer 1K

We recommend a room, substrate, and product temperature of approx. 70°F when working with our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
the substrate should be dust-free, clean, and even. Level out holes, unevenness, and slopes in advance with a suitable levelling compound before applying our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Start with Primer 1k when it is supplied in our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Mix the Primer 1k and pour it into a paint tray.
Roll the Primer 1k onto the desired surface with a paint roller.
Allow the primer 1k to dry (approx. 8-12 hours) before applying the ECO system.

Continue with the Main Coat with ECO System

Use our ECO epoxy resin system (resin + hardener) for the main coating.
For the Ammonit set Start by planning the quantity of resin (A) and hardener (B) that will be used for each color. To achieve a Ammonit result like on our site, plan: 23,75% DARK BROWN, 23,75% BRONZE RED, 23,75% BRONZE BROWN, 23,75% PEARL WHITE, 5% SIGNAL WHITE.
To acchieve the Ammonit effects, you need to proceed with multiple mixtures. Watch the instructional video and plan the colors you will use for each mixture of your Ammonit set.

Mix some the resin (A) with the hardener (B) in a ratio of 2:1 (e.g., 64fl.oz. resin: 32fl.oz. hardener).
Pour the clear resin-hardener mixture into several cups and color each cup with one of the colors you want to use in this mixture of Ammonit set. We recommend a color proportion of about 1.5% for pigments, e.g., 1g of metallic pigment per 2fl.oz. of epoxy.70g (2.5oz) of pigment per gallon of epoxy resin + hardener ECO system and about 1% for color pastes, e.g., 1g of ep color paste per 3fl.oz. of epoxy. 40g (1.5oz) of dye per gallon of epoxy resin + hardener ECO System.
Pour the pre-mixed colors of your Ammonit set into a large cup as shown in the instructional video. Do not re-mix the colors of your Ammonit set once they are poured into the same cup.
Pour the cup containing all the colors of your Ammonit set onto the surface to be covered. Repeat steps until the resin and hardener have been completely used.
The main coating ECO system can be walked on after approx. 20 hours and ECO is completely chemically cured after approx. 7 days.
Info: Epoxy resin is sensitive to any kind of moisture during curing (risk of amine blush formation, i.e. white patches in the top layer). For this reason, we recommend that you avoid any contact between water and the epoxy until it has cured completely. For thin layers, cold temperatures (ambient, substrate, and resin temperatures below 70°F) and increased humidity, the time until the epoxy resin is fully cured may be extended.

Instructions for Use Rust Gray Countertop Kit

Start with the Primer 1K

We recommend a room, substrate, and product temperature of approx. 70°F when working with our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
the substrate should be dust-free, clean, and even. Level out holes, unevenness, and slopes in advance with a suitable levelling compound before applying our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Start with Primer 1k when it is supplied in our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Mix the Primer 1k and pour it into a paint tray.
Roll the Primer 1k onto the desired surface with a paint roller.
Allow the primer 1k to dry (approx. 8-12 hours) before applying the ECO system.

Continue with the Main Coat with ECO System

Use our ECO epoxy resin system (resin + hardener) for the main coating.
For the Rust gray set Start by planning the quantity of resin (A) and hardener (B) that will be used for each color. To achieve a Rust gray result like on our site, plan: 25% SATIN GRAY, 25% FLAME COPPER, 25% BRONZE BROWN, 25% PEARL WHITE.
To acchieve the Rust gray effects, you need to proceed with multiple mixtures. Watch the instructional video and plan the colors you will use for each mixture of your Rust gray set.

Mix some the resin (A) with the hardener (B) in a ratio of 2:1 (e.g., 64fl.oz. resin: 32fl.oz. hardener).
Pour the clear resin-hardener mixture into several cups and color each cup with one of the colors you want to use in this mixture of Rust gray set. We recommend a color proportion of about 1.5% for pigments, e.g., 1g of metallic pigment per 2fl.oz. of epoxy.70g (2.5oz) of pigment per gallon of epoxy resin + hardener ECO system and about 1% for color pastes, e.g., 1g of ep color paste per 3fl.oz. of epoxy. 40g (1.5oz) of dye per gallon of epoxy resin + hardener ECO System.
Pour the pre-mixed colors of your Rust gray set into a large cup as shown in the instructional video. Do not re-mix the colors of your Rust gray set once they are poured into the same cup.
Pour the cup containing all the colors of your Rust gray set onto the surface to be covered. Repeat steps until the resin and hardener have been completely used.
The main coating ECO system can be walked on after approx. 20 hours and ECO is completely chemically cured after approx. 7 days.
Info: Epoxy resin is sensitive to any kind of moisture during curing (risk of amine blush formation, i.e. white patches in the top layer). For this reason, we recommend that you avoid any contact between water and the epoxy until it has cured completely. For thin layers, cold temperatures (ambient, substrate, and resin temperatures below 70°F) and increased humidity, the time until the epoxy resin is fully cured may be extended.

Instructions for Use Moon Countertop Kit

Start with the Primer 1K

We recommend a room, substrate, and product temperature of approx. 70°F when working with our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
the substrate should be dust-free, clean, and even. Level out holes, unevenness, and slopes in advance with a suitable levelling compound before applying our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Start with Primer 1k when it is supplied in our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Mix the Primer 1k and pour it into a paint tray.
Roll the Primer 1k onto the desired surface with a paint roller.
Allow the primer 1k to dry (approx. 8-12 hours) before applying the ECO system.

Continue with the Main Coat with ECO System

Use our ECO epoxy resin system (resin + hardener) for the main coating.
For the Moon set Start by planning the quantity of resin (A) and hardener (B) that will be used for each color. To achieve a Moon result like on our site, plan: 30% SATIN GRAY, 30% PLATINUM SILVER, 30% PEARL WHITE, 10% SIGNAL WHITE.
To acchieve the Moon effects, you need to proceed with multiple mixtures. Watch the instructional video and plan the colors you will use for each mixture of your Moon set.

Mix some the resin (A) with the hardener (B) in a ratio of 2:1 (e.g., 64fl.oz. resin: 32fl.oz. hardener).
Pour the clear resin-hardener mixture into several cups and color each cup with one of the colors you want to use in this mixture of Moon set. We recommend a color proportion of about 1.5% for pigments, e.g., 1g of metallic pigment per 2fl.oz. of epoxy.70g (2.5oz) of pigment per gallon of epoxy resin + hardener ECO system and about 1% for color pastes, e.g., 1g of ep color paste per 3fl.oz. of epoxy. 40g (1.5oz) of dye per gallon of epoxy resin + hardener ECO System.
Pour the pre-mixed colors of your Moon set into a large cup as shown in the instructional video. Do not re-mix the colors of your Moon set once they are poured into the same cup.
Pour the cup containing all the colors of your Moon set onto the surface to be covered. Repeat steps until the resin and hardener have been completely used.
The main coating ECO system can be walked on after approx. 20 hours and ECO is completely chemically cured after approx. 7 days.
Info: Epoxy resin is sensitive to any kind of moisture during curing (risk of amine blush formation, i.e. white patches in the top layer). For this reason, we recommend that you avoid any contact between water and the epoxy until it has cured completely. For thin layers, cold temperatures (ambient, substrate, and resin temperatures below 70°F) and increased humidity, the time until the epoxy resin is fully cured may be extended.

Instructions for Use Spice Brown Countertop Kit

Start with the Primer 1K

We recommend a room, substrate, and product temperature of approx. 70°F when working with our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
the substrate should be dust-free, clean, and even. Level out holes, unevenness, and slopes in advance with a suitable levelling compound before applying our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Start with Primer 1k when it is supplied in our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Mix the Primer 1k and pour it into a paint tray.
Roll the Primer 1k onto the desired surface with a paint roller.
Allow the primer 1k to dry (approx. 8-12 hours) before applying the ECO system.

Continue with the Main Coat with ECO System

Use our ECO epoxy resin system (resin + hardener) for the main coating.
For the Spice brown set Start by planning the quantity of resin (A) and hardener (B) that will be used for each color. To achieve a Spice brown result like on our site, plan: 30% BRONZE BROWN, 30% HAVANA BRONZE, 30% PEARL WHITE, 10% JET BLACK.
To acchieve the Spice brown effects, you need to proceed with multiple mixtures. Watch the instructional video and plan the colors you will use for each mixture of your Spice brown set.

Mix some the resin (A) with the hardener (B) in a ratio of 2:1 (e.g., 64fl.oz. resin: 32fl.oz. hardener).
Pour the clear resin-hardener mixture into several cups and color each cup with one of the colors you want to use in this mixture of Spice brown set. We recommend a color proportion of about 1.5% for pigments, e.g., 1g of metallic pigment per 2fl.oz. of epoxy.70g (2.5oz) of pigment per gallon of epoxy resin + hardener ECO system and about 1% for color pastes, e.g., 1g of ep color paste per 3fl.oz. of epoxy. 40g (1.5oz) of dye per gallon of epoxy resin + hardener ECO System.
Pour the pre-mixed colors of your Spice brown set into a large cup as shown in the instructional video. Do not re-mix the colors of your Spice brown set once they are poured into the same cup.
Pour the cup containing all the colors of your Spice brown set onto the surface to be covered. Repeat steps until the resin and hardener have been completely used.
The main coating ECO system can be walked on after approx. 20 hours and ECO is completely chemically cured after approx. 7 days.
Info: Epoxy resin is sensitive to any kind of moisture during curing (risk of amine blush formation, i.e. white patches in the top layer). For this reason, we recommend that you avoid any contact between water and the epoxy until it has cured completely. For thin layers, cold temperatures (ambient, substrate, and resin temperatures below 70°F) and increased humidity, the time until the epoxy resin is fully cured may be extended.

Instructions for Use Onyx Countertop Kit

Start with the Primer 1K

We recommend a room, substrate, and product temperature of approx. 70°F when working with our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
the substrate should be dust-free, clean, and even. Level out holes, unevenness, and slopes in advance with a suitable levelling compound before applying our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Start with Primer 1k when it is supplied in our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Mix the Primer 1k and pour it into a paint tray.
Roll the Primer 1k onto the desired surface with a paint roller.
Allow the primer 1k to dry (approx. 8-12 hours) before applying the ECO system.

Continue with the Main Coat with ECO System

Use our ECO epoxy resin system (resin + hardener) for the main coating.
For the Onyx set Start by planning the quantity of resin (A) and hardener (B) that will be used for each color. To achieve a Onyx result like on our site, plan: 45% INTENSE ANTHRACITE, 45% PEARL WHITE, 5% JET BLACK, 5% SIGNAL WHITE.
To acchieve the Onyx effects, you need to proceed with multiple mixtures. Watch the instructional video and plan the colors you will use for each mixture of your Onyx set.

Mix some the resin (A) with the hardener (B) in a ratio of 2:1 (e.g., 64fl.oz. resin: 32fl.oz. hardener).
Pour the clear resin-hardener mixture into several cups and color each cup with one of the colors you want to use in this mixture of Onyx set. We recommend a color proportion of about 1.5% for pigments, e.g., 1g of metallic pigment per 2fl.oz. of epoxy.70g (2.5oz) of pigment per gallon of epoxy resin + hardener ECO system and about 1% for color pastes, e.g., 1g of ep color paste per 3fl.oz. of epoxy. 40g (1.5oz) of dye per gallon of epoxy resin + hardener ECO System.
Pour the pre-mixed colors of your Onyx set into a large cup as shown in the instructional video. Do not re-mix the colors of your Onyx set once they are poured into the same cup.
Pour the cup containing all the colors of your Onyx set onto the surface to be covered. Repeat steps until the resin and hardener have been completely used.
The main coating ECO system can be walked on after approx. 20 hours and ECO is completely chemically cured after approx. 7 days.
Info: Epoxy resin is sensitive to any kind of moisture during curing (risk of amine blush formation, i.e. white patches in the top layer). For this reason, we recommend that you avoid any contact between water and the epoxy until it has cured completely. For thin layers, cold temperatures (ambient, substrate, and resin temperatures below 70°F) and increased humidity, the time until the epoxy resin is fully cured may be extended.

Instructions for Use Granit Countertop Kit

Start with the Primer 1K

We recommend a room, substrate, and product temperature of approx. 70°F when working with our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
the substrate should be dust-free, clean, and even. Level out holes, unevenness, and slopes in advance with a suitable levelling compound before applying our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Start with Primer 1k when it is supplied in our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Mix the Primer 1k and pour it into a paint tray.
Roll the Primer 1k onto the desired surface with a paint roller.
Allow the primer 1k to dry (approx. 8-12 hours) before applying the ECO system.

Continue with the Main Coat with ECO System

Use our ECO epoxy resin system (resin + hardener) for the main coating.
For the Granit set Start by planning the quantity of resin (A) and hardener (B) that will be used for each color. To achieve a Granit result like on our site, plan: 45% PLATINUM SILVER, 45% PEARL WHITE, 5% JET BLACK, 5% SIGNAL WHITE.
To acchieve the Granit effects, you need to proceed with multiple mixtures. Watch the instructional video and plan the colors you will use for each mixture of your Granit set.

Mix some the resin (A) with the hardener (B) in a ratio of 2:1 (e.g., 64fl.oz. resin: 32fl.oz. hardener).
Pour the clear resin-hardener mixture into several cups and color each cup with one of the colors you want to use in this mixture of Granit set. We recommend a color proportion of about 1.5% for pigments, e.g., 1g of metallic pigment per 2fl.oz. of epoxy.70g (2.5oz) of pigment per gallon of epoxy resin + hardener ECO system and about 1% for color pastes, e.g., 1g of ep color paste per 3fl.oz. of epoxy. 40g (1.5oz) of dye per gallon of epoxy resin + hardener ECO System.
Pour the pre-mixed colors of your Granit set into a large cup as shown in the instructional video. Do not re-mix the colors of your Granit set once they are poured into the same cup.
Pour the cup containing all the colors of your Granit set onto the surface to be covered. Repeat steps until the resin and hardener have been completely used.
The main coating ECO system can be walked on after approx. 20 hours and ECO is completely chemically cured after approx. 7 days.
Info: Epoxy resin is sensitive to any kind of moisture during curing (risk of amine blush formation, i.e. white patches in the top layer). For this reason, we recommend that you avoid any contact between water and the epoxy until it has cured completely. For thin layers, cold temperatures (ambient, substrate, and resin temperatures below 70°F) and increased humidity, the time until the epoxy resin is fully cured may be extended.

Instructions for Use Rust Black Countertop Kit

Start with the Primer 1K

We recommend a room, substrate, and product temperature of approx. 70°F when working with our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
the substrate should be dust-free, clean, and even. Level out holes, unevenness, and slopes in advance with a suitable levelling compound before applying our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Start with Primer 1k when it is supplied in our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
Mix the Primer 1k and pour it into a paint tray.
Roll the Primer 1k onto the desired surface with a paint roller.
Allow the primer 1k to dry (approx. 8-12 hours) before applying the ECO system.

Continue with the Main Coat with ECO System

Use our ECO epoxy resin system (resin + hardener) for the main coating.
For the Rust black set Start by planning the quantity of resin (A) and hardener (B) that will be used for each color. To achieve a Rust black result like on our site, plan: 45% BRONZE BROWN, 45% PEARL WHITE, 10% JET BLACK.
To acchieve the Rust black effects, you need to proceed with multiple mixtures. Watch the instructional video and plan the colors you will use for each mixture of your Rust black set.

Mix some the resin (A) with the hardener (B) in a ratio of 2:1 (e.g., 64fl.oz. resin: 32fl.oz. hardener).
Pour the clear resin-hardener mixture into several cups and color each cup with one of the colors you want to use in this mixture of Rust black set. We recommend a color proportion of about 1.5% for pigments, e.g., 1g of metallic pigment per 2fl.oz. of epoxy.70g (2.5oz) of pigment per gallon of epoxy resin + hardener ECO system and about 1% for color pastes, e.g., 1g of ep color paste per 3fl.oz. of epoxy. 40g (1.5oz) of dye per gallon of epoxy resin + hardener ECO System.
Pour the pre-mixed colors of your Rust black set into a large cup as shown in the instructional video. Do not re-mix the colors of your Rust black set once they are poured into the same cup.
Pour the cup containing all the colors of your Rust black set onto the surface to be covered. Repeat steps until the resin and hardener have been completely used.
The main coating ECO system can be walked on after approx. 20 hours and ECO is completely chemically cured after approx. 7 days.
Info: Epoxy resin is sensitive to any kind of moisture during curing (risk of amine blush formation, i.e. white patches in the top layer). For this reason, we recommend that you avoid any contact between water and the epoxy until it has cured completely. For thin layers, cold temperatures (ambient, substrate, and resin temperatures below 70°F) and increased humidity, the time until the epoxy resin is fully cured may be extended.

No, our epoxy resin from the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system can’t be used on a floor having water rising by capillarity. You must solve the issue causing the water to raise before applying our ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system.

Yes, you can paint on our epoxy resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system, we recommend waiting until full chemical curing before painting and sanding the epoxy resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system before painting on it. 

To paint a vinyl floor, you can use our tile paint 2k. Please note that painting vinyl with tile paint 2k will only give a new color and not hide any imperfections.
You can use our ECO system for floors on a vinyl floor.

No, UV resins are resins curing under a UV lamp. EPODEX doesn’t have UV resin. 
Resin resistant to UV are resin that have UV additive to protect against yellowing.

Yes, you can apply epoxy resin ECO flooring set to tiled floors, but it is recommended to first level the grout and then use our ECO flooring set. If you wish to only paint the tiled floor with resin, we recommend using our tile paint 2k. 

We do not have a white based epoxy resin ECO flooring/countertop with highlight. We do not recommend a white based epoxy resin ECO flooring/counter as the resin yellows. 

We recommend mixing the epoxy resin until the mixture if free of streak. There is no specific time to mix the resin, as it depends on the mixing speed and the quantity being mixed. Just sure that the epoxy resin mixture A and B is free of streaks, pour it in another mixing cup and mix again before use.

We don’t have a certificate as we are only selling the products in their liquid state the epoxy is free of BPA after proper chemical curing.

Our epoxy resins from the ECO and PRO range are self-levelling low viscosity resins. We do not have epoxy resin with high viscosity; it is possible to let the epoxy resin from the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system thicken before using but it is important to closely monitor the epoxy resin to make sure it doesn’t overheat.

We do not recommend applying the bonding primer under the epoxy resin set. To achieve a levelled finish on tiles with epoxy resin, we recommend planning more epoxy resin to fill in the tiles joint or to do a self-levelling compound over the tiles before applying our epoxy resin set.

You need to use the mixed epoxy resin from the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system immediately. Once mixed, the epoxy resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system cannot be stored.

Yes, you can use the ECO System to seal or protect your vehicle’s tank.
The ECO system is resistant to fuels once it is fully chemically cured (after 7 days at 20 °C).

The layer thickness of the epoxy resin flooring ECO set is 1/16“. 

To protect a laminated worktop, countertop or table, we recommend our epoxy resin for countertop set.

No, we only have an epoxy resin set with a thickness of 1/16“. If you wish to apply more than 1/16“ epoxy resin on your floor, we recommend that you buy the ECO System individually.

When pouring an epoxy resin floor with our 1K Primer as a primer, it is possible to pour up to 3/8“ thickness at once. When pouring an epoxy floor WITHOUT our 1K Primer as a primer, we recommend pouring your epoxy floor in 2 layers. The first layer of an epoxy flooring without 1k primer, should be about 1/32” thick to seal the floor. Let the first layer of the epoxy flooring cure before applying the 2nd layer with the rest of the epoxy.

You’ll not see the different layers of epoxy resin on the floor.

The maximal layer thickness is determined by the hardener; you can pour the thickness written on your hardener.

To repair water tanks, you can use our epoxy resin system for laminating – ECO System. If the water tank has a hole, we recommend reinforcing it with fibreglass and our ECO System.

No, we do not recommend using our epoxy resin ECO flooring set to pour more than 1/16“. To pour a floor with epoxy resin ECO with a thickness of more than 1/16“, we recommend buying the epoxy and primer individually.

You can’t use the ECO flooring set to pour more than 1/16“ thickness because when selecting a bigger quantity, you will end up with too much primer and not enough epoxy resin ECO.

We do not recommend pouring less than 1/16“ thickness with our ECO flooring set, as it can cause curing problems. 

No, we do not recommend using our epoxy resin ECO countertop set to pour more than 1/16“. To pour a countertop with epoxy resin ECO with a thickness of more than 1/16“, we recommend buying epoxy and primer individually.

You can’t use the ECO countertop set to pour more than 1/16“ thickness because when selecting a bigger quantity, you will end up with too much primer and not enough epoxy resin ECO.

We do not recommend pouring less than 1/16“ thickness with our ECO countertop set, as it can cause curing problems. 

The epoxy resin is made to last. The epoxy resin can have superficial scratches which can be polished away easily. 

No, we do not have a matte epoxy resin. It is possible to sand the epoxy resin without polishing to achieve a matte finish or apply a matte polyurethane topcoat.

Yes, you can put the epoxy resin flooring set ECO on tiles. Please note that we do recommend levelling the tiles before applying the epoxy resin flooring set ECO or planning more epoxy resin ECO to fill out the grout between the tiles. 

We do not have any resin drying under UV lamp no. Our epoxy resin are curing be chemical reaction between the resin and hardener.

No, our epoxy resin will not cure faster with a UV lamp.

Yes, you can apply epoxy resin on furniture but please note that it is very difficult to achieve the vertical part with our epoxy resin. 

To achieve a non-slip finish, we recommend either applying a polyurethane topcoat with 1% micro glass beads or sprinkling micro glass beads on top of the still liquid epoxy resin flooring ECO. 

Yes, our 2K PU Topcoat in glossy can be applied to epoxy resin to give it a glossy finish.

Yes, you can apply our 2K PU Topcoat on top of your sanded epoxy resin to give it back its glossy finish without polishing.

Yes, it is possible to apply the epoxy resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system on glass. To apply epoxy resin on glass, the glass must be sanded and clean. We recommend applying a silicone edge to prevent the epoxy resin from running down from the glass. 

Yes, after complete chemical curing epoxy resin is resistant to water and humidity changes. 

Due to colder temperatures during storage or transport, the A component (epoxy resin) may crystallize. This has the effect of a cloudy, milky appearance. White residues may also appear on the rim or bottom of the container.
No need to worry! You can easily reverse the crystallization. We recommend that you check in advance whether crystallization has occurred. To do this, pour some resin into a mixing cup. If you notice traces of crystallization, please place the container in a boiling water bath. A few minutes are sufficient to reverse the crystallization. If this does not happen after a few minutes, extend the time in the water bath, and increase the temperature. Alternatively, you can place the containers on a heater and shake them repeatedly in between. Then let the product cool down to room temperature. Then the material can be processed as usual.

The white streaks on epoxy resin are carbamates that form when moisture encounters uncured material. You can easily sand the carbamate down and then polish the resin back up.
To bring your sanded epoxy to a high gloss, use our sandpaper.
Start with a grit of P100 and gradually sand up to a P3,000 grit. If you wish, you can also sand up to a P10,000 grit until you have achieved the desired effect. Finally, polish your surface with EPODEX Resin Polish.

The epoxy resin adheres to almost all surfaces and materials. Epoxy resin doesn’t stick to silicone and polypropylene. We recommend sanding (roughening) smooth surfaces before applying epoxy resin to ensure a good adhesion.

The ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system are BPA-free, but only the PRO serie is VOC-free.

Silicone or polypropylene mixing containers are best when mixing epoxy resin because they can be reused after the residue has been cured. The material does not bond with the epoxy resin of the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system or the 2K paints, so you can squeeze out the residues after curing.

Our epoxy resins are resistant to almost all chemicals, petrol and oil. However, due to a large number of chemicals, we recommend testing the resistance selectively in advance. Various acids can dissolve the surface. We recommend a test in advance.

No epoxy resin is 100% UV resistant. However, by adding UV stabilizers it is possible to obtain a very crystal-clear resin. Compared to the ECO system, our PRO systems offer the highest possible UV protection, which largely prevents yellowing. Nevertheless, it must be considered that no epoxy resin is completely UV-resistant, and yellowing might always occur.

It is not possible to prevent epoxy resin from yellowing. We recommend using a colorants to color the epoxy resin and hide the yellowing.

No, applying the 2K PU Topcoat will not prevent the epoxy resin from yellowing. Applying the 2K PU Topcoat will slow down, minimize yellowing but not stop it completely.

You can increase the scratch resistance of your epoxy resin by applying our 2K PU Topcoat.

You can increase the heat resistance of your epoxy resin by applying our 2K PU Topcoat.

You can use our 2K PU paint to paint over epoxy resin. It is also possible to use acrylic-based paint to paint over epoxy resin. 

Our 2K Levelling Compound can be used as an epoxy mortar. Epoxy putty is a ready-made putty. We do not sell epoxy putty.

Our ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system aren’t pre-colored, giving you the opportunity to customize your epoxy to your need. 

If the ECO system, PRO system, and PRO+ system are not yet cured, the addition of heat will cause the bubbles to rise. You can therefore use a hairdryer, for example, and apply heat to your epoxy resin project at a slight distance. If the resin has already cured, the bubbles can no longer be removed.

Yes, if the epoxy resin has been made heat resistant with a suitable product.

No, the flowers must be dried and sealed, for example with a layer of EPODEX ECO epoxy resin. To preserve the color, you can soak the flowers in silicate salts.

When creating patterns, it is important to work at the gelling point of the epoxy resin. This is reached when the consistency of the epoxy resin is a solid gel.

The following problem can cause the epoxy resin to not cure:

• Not stirred without streaks
• Mixed by volume and not by kg
• Not repotted
• Scraped from the edge or bottom
• Ambient temperature too low
• Wrong mixing ratio
• Not weighed, but simply tipped out A and added B - due to different viscosities, not all come out of the container
• Too much pigment
• Foreign pigment

If the mixing ratio is followed exactly and resin and hardener are mixed evenly and then repotted, the epoxy resin will cure fully. The following problem can cause partial curing problem:

• Not stirred without streaks - means unconnected poured material.
• Scraped from the rim of the cup
• Not repotted

If you order an Epoxy Resin Countertop set or Epoxy Resin Flooring set, you’ll receive 1K PRIMER which will either be pre-tinted in grey or you’ll receive WB PIGMENT to add into the 1K PRIMER untinted. Never adding anything else than WB PIGMENT to the 1K PRIMER to dye it.

The marble effect spray has a plastic safety washer under the sprayer that needs to be removed out before use. 

Yes, our epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO series can be put in contact with food after full chemical curing. 

We do not recommend applying our epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO series at more than 70°F. The recommended working temperature of the ECO and PRO series is 67-70°F. 

No, we do not recommend pouring epoxy resin from the ECO or PRO series at more than 70°F. Pouring epoxy resin at 71°F or 72°F can lead to overheating. 

No, we do not recommend putting epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO series in the dishwasher even after full chemical curing. 

The epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO series can be stored up to 6 months after opening. 

Yes, you can mix the resin A-component PRO with the hardener B-component PRO.

Yes, you can mix the resin A-component PRO with the hardener B-component PRO+.

No, you can’t mix the resin A-component PRO with the hardener B-component ECO.

Yes, you can mix the resin A-component ECO with the hardener B-component ECO.

No, you can’t mix the resin A-component ECO with the hardener B-component PRO.

No, you can’t mix the resin A-component ECO with the hardener B-component PRO+.

We recommend waiting until full chemical curing before applying the 2K PU Topcoat on epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO series. The full chemical curing of the ECO System and PRO system Is 7days. The full chemical curing of the PRO+ System is 14 days.

Yes, the 1K PRIMER is included in all the Epoxy Resin Set for floors, except in the transparent one.

Yes, the 1K PRIMER is included in all the Epoxy Resin ECO Set for countertops, except in the transparent one.

No, we do not recommend using DEEP PRIMER under epoxy resin. 

Yes, the primer is always included with the ECO Flooring set, except when ordering transparent.

We do not recommend applying our Epoxy Resin ECO Flooring Set with a brush. We recommend applying the Flooring Set with a squeegee or foam roller.

The Marble Epoxy Resin Flooring Set includes the 1K PRIMER, WB Pigment to dye the 1K PRIMER, the marble spray, the ECO resin, and ECO Hardener in clear. 

We only recommend our transparent drop-in colorants when working with LEDs inside epoxy resin. 

We do not recommend using epoxy resin to coat Plexiglas as epoxy doesn’t stick well to plastics.

No, the PRO System has the same quality as the PRO+ System. Both resins have the same transparency; they only differ in the layer thickness you can apply.

No, the marble spray is a spray paint that sprays fine, web-like strand resembling the natural veining of marble.

No, we do not have marbling powder. We only have a marble spray

Instructions for use Marble Flooring / Marble Countertop

Start with the Primer 1K

We recommend a room, substrate, and product temperature of approx. 70°F when working with our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
the substrate should be dust-free, clean, and even. Level out holes, unevenness, and slopes in advance with a suitable levelling compound before applying our countertop and flooring ECO epoxy resin kit.
In the marble epoxy resin set with ECO System, the 1K Primer must be dyed. Dye the 1K PRIMER from the marble epoxy resin set with our supplied WB PIGMENT paste and mix well. We recommend a color proportion of approx. 10%, for example, 100g color paste to 1kg 1K PRIMER. It is very important to never add the WB PIGMENT in the epoxy resin from the ECO and PRO series.
Pour the colored primer 1k into a paint tray after mixing.
Roll the colored primer 1k onto the desired surface with a paint roller.
Allow the primer 1k to dry (approx. 8-12 hours).
Spray the desired marbling on the primed surface with the Marble Effect Spray and allow it to dry.

Continue with the Main Coat with ECO System

Use our ECO epoxy resin system (resin + hardener) for the main coating of your marble set.
Mix the resin (A) with the hardener (B) in a ratio of 2:1 (e.g., 2gal A + 1gal B).
Ideally, transfer the resin-hardener mixture to a clean mixing bucket and stir again. This will ensure that the resin (A) and hardener (B) are completely mixed together.
Pour the resin-hardener mixture ECO system onto the substrate immediately after mixing, as the product can boil up in the mixing bucket.
The main coating of ECO System can be walked on/touched after approx. 20 hours and ECO is completely chemically cured after approx. 7 days.
Info: Epoxy resin is sensitive to any kind of moisture during curing (risk of amine blush formation, i.e. white patches in the top layer). For this reason, we recommend that you avoid any contact between water and the epoxy until it has cured completely. For thin layers, cold temperatures (ambient, substrate, and resin temperatures below 70°F) and increased humidity, the time until the epoxy resin is fully cured may be extended.

We do not recommend using epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series outside as the temperatures and humidity levels can’t be controlled.

We recommend our ECO System or PRO System when applying a thin layer.

It’s not necessary to sand the epoxy resin before applying the 2K PU Topcoat. The epoxy resin has to be totally cured before applying the 2K PU Topcoat. If you need to fix some imperfections, you can sand to the P600/P800 before applying the 2K PU Topcoat. 

Our epoxy resin are not bio-based. 

Liquid epoxy resin is a toxic and hazardous chemical. If you have containers with unused liquid epoxy, it’s recommended that you take them to an appropriate hazardous waste collection center.
Once the chemical curing process is complete, however, the epoxy resin becomes non-toxic and non-hazardous to both human health and the environment. If possible, we recommend mixing Part A and Part B to ensure the resin cures fully before disposal. Fully cured epoxy can then be safely discarded in your household plastic waste bin. To reduce the ecological footprint of the resins, it’s important to minimize resin waste, use the exact amounts needed, and ensure proper curing and disposal — ideally through hazardous waste facilities for uncured resin and safe disposal of cured resin with household plastics where local rules allow.

Yes, it is possible to add quartz sand on top of epoxy resin to achieve a non-slip but we recommend using microglass beads for esthetic reasons.

It is important to apply min. 1/16” thickness with the epoxy resin ECO set for floors. It is possible to spread the material with a roller but please not that we do not recommend applying less than 1/16" on a leveled floor. 

No, we do not have bio-sourced epoxy resin. 

The ECO from ECO System stands for economical.

We do not have a food-safe certificate for our epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series as we are only selling the product in unmixed form. 

Mixing the different opaque pigments such as glow in the dark, metallic pigment, neon pigment and ral color paste together in one pour will hide the different effects, for example the glow in the dark might not be visible or the color paste will hide the metallic shimmer. 
To use different colors, we recommend preparing different mixture of each colors. 

Yes, the PRO system includes both the PRO A-component resin and hardener PRO b-component in the right mixing ratio.

Yes, the PRO+ system includes both the PRO A-component resin and hardener PRO+ b-component in the right mixing ratio.

Yes, the ECO system includes both the ECO A-component resin and hardener ECO b-component in the right mixing ratio.

Yes, we do sell the glitter pigment without epoxy resin. 

If, you wish to coat or paint your floor with a more cost-effect product than the epoxy resin flooring ECO, we recommend taking a look at our polyurethane or concrete paint.

Yes, it is normal for the epoxy resin PRO+ to still be runny after 24h but it should show sign or getting thicker. The PRO+ resin will no longer be tacky after 48-72hours.

No, you need to wait at least 72-96hours before pouring a new layer on the PRO+ epoxy resin.

No, our epoxy resin of the ECO and PRO series always comes in transparent with the pigments/dyes separately.

The waiting time between two layers of PRO+ system is 48-72h.

The ECO series has a glossy finish, is clear, low in VOC, bubble free but not UV stabilised. We recommend using the ECO series with a colorant. For white and transparent castings, we recommend choosing the PRO series.

The pot life of the PRO system is 65minutes for 145g (5fl.oz.) at 70°F. For larger quantities and higher temperatures, the pot life is shorter.

A 3/4“ layer of PRO system needs 12h at 70°F before you can apply a new layer of PRO. If the layer of PRO is less than 3/4“ or the temperature is less than 70°F, the time before you can apply a new layer of PRO will be longer.

The gelling time of the PRO System when pouring a layer of 1/16“ thick at 70°F is 120minutes.

The gelling time of the PRO System when pouring a layer of 3/8“ thick at 70°F is 90minutes.

The gelling time of the PRO System when pouring a layer of 3/4“ thick at 70°F is 60minutes.

Microcement is a versatile design filler consisting of two components: Microcement (A) and Acrylic Resin (B – liquid). It can be applied to walls (tiled or not), facades, floors (tiled or not), doors, furniture, and various other surfaces such as concrete, metal, plastic, or wood. It is important to always prime the substrate before applying Microcement.
It is suitable for indoor use and outdoor areas. For outdoor spaces, floors, bathrooms, showers, or other wet areas with water contact, Microcement must be sealed with a Polyurethane topcoat (2K PU Topcoat) to ensure water resistance.
This makes Microcement an excellent choice for creating durable, stylish finishes on a wide range of surfaces.

The processing temperature of Microcement should be between 50°F and 75°F, with an optimal temperature of 70°F.

At 70°F, Microcement dries and achieves mechanical hardening in 8 hours, while chemical hardening is completed in 7 days.

Microcement has no pot life. If the Microcement thickens just stir to reliquefy it.

For walls/ furniture coated with Microcement:

• The first layer Microcement (using medium grain with liquid B) requires about 0.24lb/sqft.
• The second layer Microcement (using medium grain with liquid B) will need  0.24lb/sqft.
  For floors:
• The first layer Microcement (using large grain with liquid B) requires around 0.32lb/sqft.
• The second layer Microcement (using medium grain with liquid B) will need 0.24lb/sqft.

• Microcement Medium and Large Grain: A: 15.4lbs / B: 4.4lbs

Microcement Medium Grain: Unpigmented, matte, perfect for the walls or the second layer on floors.
Microcement Large Grain: Unpigmented, matte, best for the first layer on floors.

The waiting time between coats for Microcement is a minimum of 8 hours and a maximum of 24 hours at 70°F. If more than 24 hours pass after applying the first layer Microcement , you need to sand the surface and apply B liquid before applying the second coat Microcement . Apply the Microcement on the wet B liquid.

If you are working at more than 70°F, the drying time of the Microcement is quicker and applying the second layer after 24h might cause bubbles in the second layer. At high temperature we recommend to sand and apply a thin layer of liquid B when approaching 24h. When working at higher temperature, add more liquid B to your Microcement to help the Microcement to self-vent and not harden as quickly.

The mixing ratio for Microcement by weight for the Microcement powder and liquid B in Microcement is as follows:
 

• Medium Grain Microcement: 100:20 (15.4lbs Microcement Powder with 3lbs Liquid B + WB pigment to dye the mixture)
• Large Grain Microcement: 100:25 (15.4lbs Microcement Powder with 3.85lbs Liquid B + WB pigment to dye the mixture)
  You can add between 2 and 10 % WB Pigment to Microcement. The Microcement sets are delivered with 2% WB Pigment which are the colors displayed on our website. For more intensive colors, you can add up to 10% WB pigment to your microcment, to do so, you will need to order extra WB pigment.

Microcement is applied by spreading it on a surface with a trowel. Important precautions:

• It is not dilutable Microcement with water—do not mix it with water.
• Avoid putting Microcement in contact with water contact within the first 24 hours after application, as it can cause stains and slow down the drying time of the Microcement.
• Heat sources or sunlight can cause the Microcement to have different color and in some cases even crack in the Microcement and CONCRETE EFFECT 1k.
• Do not turn on your underfloor heating for at least 48h after the last layers of Microcement.
• It is important to always prime the substrate properly before applying Microcement.

You can mix Microcement with 2% WB Pigment (Water-based pigment). For example, mix 2 x 100 g WB pigment are sufficient to color 1x Bag of Microcement Poweder and the Appropriate amount of liquid B. 

A PU topcoat can be applied at least 48 hours after the last layer of Microcement has been applied.

No, we do not have any ready color samples for our microcement, but we do have a sample kit where you can do your own samples.

Yes, you can! We offer a Microcement Sample Set that includes medium grain-sized Microcement and up to 10 custom colors of your choice. It’s perfect for testing and finding the right color Microcement and texture for your project.

Yes, you can! We offer the option to purchase individual components of the Microcement set. You can choose:

• The liquid part (B) separately.
• Microcement Powder (A) in two sizes (medium, and large).
  This is ideal for projects where you only need to restock certain materials.

Yes, we do! We offer a variety of equipment for working with Microcement, including rollers, trowels, brushes, mixing buckets, and complete sets tailored to your needs—whether you're applying Microcement on floors or walls.

The Difference Between Microcement and CONCRETE EFFECT

• Microcement is applied in 2 layers and mixed with Liquid B, an acrylic-based binder. It can be applied to walls, floors, ceilings, and furniture. It is available in 2 grain-sizes. The layer superposition allows you to achieve a unique textured finish which can’t be obtain with another product. It is highly resistant to tear and wear and scratches. Microcement With a PU sealant it can be applied to wet room, such as bathroom and outdoor spaces.
• CONCRETE EFFECT is a cost-effective alternative to Microcement that can only be applied to surface not subjected to heavy tear and wear, such as walls. The CONCRETE EFFECT comes in only 1 grain-size which is a bit finer than microcement medium. It is applied in 1 layer. Unlike Microcement CONCRETE EFFECT can be sanded easily making it ideal for temporary decorative projects. You can also add a PU topcoat to CONCRETE EFFECT.

It is important to avoid using underfloor heating for at least 48 hours after applying the last layer of Microcement. Additionally, underfloor heating should not be used during the application or drying process of the Microcement. This is crucial to ensure proper curing and adhesion of the Microcement layers, as interference from heat could affect the quality and durability of the finish.

The mixing ratio of our PUTTY PRIMER is as follow: 11lbs of primer and 0.5gal of water.

The mixing ratio for the 2K LEVELING COMPOUND is as follows: 100 parts quartz sand + 60 parts resin/hardener. For example, 22lbs of quartz sand + 8.8lbs of resin (A) + 4.4lbs of hardener (B).

The mixing ratio for the 2K bonding primer is 5:1. For example, 1lb of resin BONDING PRIMER to 0.2lb of hardener BONDING PRIMER.

The DEEP PRIMER is ready to use and does not need to be mixed with any other product. The coverage is 2.2lbs per 75.3sqm.

The color of the Microcement may vary depending on the lighting in the room. The brighter the room and the cooler the light source, the lighter and cooler the color will appear.
In rooms with a warm light source, the color may appear warmer and more yellowish.

The color of the Microcement may look different right after application, and you may notice some uneven patches. This is due to the drying time of each Microcement layer, the size of the area covered, and the thickness of the Microcement in certain spots.
The thicker the layer of Microcement, the longer it will take to dry. Two coats of Microcement usually need 24-48 hours to dry fully, and only then will the true color be visible.

Microcement is only waterproof when it is sealed with our 2K PU Topcoat.

Priming the Surface before applying Microcement on walls
Ensure the surface where you want to apply Microcement is dimensionally stable (not warping), solid, dry, and free of dirt, release agents, or irregularities.
Sand down any uneven areas before starting to prime for the Microcement.
Apply primer compatible with Microcement:
If you want to apply Microcement to tiled walls or dimensionnaly stable non-absorbent walls: Use our special PUTTY PRIMER to prime the tiles and fill the joints.
If you want to apply Microcement to smooth absorbent but dimensionnaly stable walls: We recommend our DEEP PRIMER before laying Microcement. (we recommend 2 layers DEEP PRIMER before applying Microcement)
Allow the primer to dry completely before proceeding with Microcement. Applying Microcement on when the primer isn't properly dry, will result in cracking. 
Main Coating of Microcement on Walls

1. The first layer Microcement on walls is done with Microcement medium-grained. Mix the Microcement A-component (medium grain) with the B-component according to the specified ratio.
2. Add WB pigment in the recommended quantity to color the Microcement.
3. Spread the microcment with a trowel on the wall and let it dry.
4. Sand down any Microcement imperfections larger than 1/8“ and vacuum the dust.

Apply a second layer of Microcement medium grain on your wall within 24h: 
Pro Tips: You can add up to 10% WB pigment to your Microcement to achieve deeper colors. Our Microcement sets include 2% pigment if you want a deeper color, we recommend buying WB pigment separately.
If more than 24 hours pass between Microcement layers, sand the first layer Microcement lightly and remove any dust. This will roughen the Microcement, improving adhesion and preventing the next layer Microcement from peeling.
Apply a small amount of Liquid B with a brush or roller on the sanded Microcement layer. Be careful not to oversaturate the surface.
Sealing Instructions (Seal Microcment 48 Hours After the last Microcement layer)
Note: When using Microcement in wet rooms, on surfaces exposed to direct water contact, or high-wear areas (e.g., floors, surfaces cleaned with aggressive detergents, or heavy mechanical loads), we recommend sealing Microcement with EPODEX Polyurethane Resin (2K PU Topcaot) in matt or glossy finish.
Steps for Sealing Microcement with 2K PU Topcoat:
Prepare the 2K PU Topcoat:

1. Mix PU Resin (A) with the PU Hardener (B) in a 2 to 1 mixing ratio (for example, 28fl.oz. resin A-component 2K PU Topcoat with 14fl.oz. hardener B-component 2K PU Topcoat)
2. Stir through the edge and bottom of the mixing cup as the 2K PU Topcoat components will settle there. Ideally, pour the 2K PU Topcoat mixture a clean mixing cup and mix again until it is streak-free. This ensures that the resin A-component and hardener B-component are completely mixed together.
3. Pour the mixed 2K PU Topcoat into a paint tray and apply it thinly with a roller in a criss-cross pattern.
4. Let the first layer 2K PU Topcoat cure and apply the second coat in the same way. We recommend applying the second coat 2K PU Topcoat after min. 6h but not more than 20h.
   Curing Time of the 2K PU Topcoat:
   The surface coated with 2K PU Topcoat will be walkable after 12 hours at 75°F and fully chemically cured after approximately 6 days.
   Pro Tips: Ensure Full Coverage: Apply the 2K PU Topcoat in two thin coats, using overlapping strokes. This significantly reduces the risk of missed spots and ensures complete sealing. We recommend applying 2 coats 2K PU Topcoat of each 0.28fl.oz./sqft.
   Pro Tip for when applying 2K PU Topcoat to a coarse Microcement finish: If your Microcement is very textured, you can apply the 2K PU Topcoat with a brush. Make sure to apply it very thinly!

We recommend using 2% pigment in each Microcement mix. Adding more or less pigment onto the Microcement may result in a color different from what is shown on our website. The way you apply the Microcement can also affect the result, leading to variations in shade and surface texture.

Priming for Microcement on floors
Surface Preparation for Microcement:
Ensure the surface is dimensionally stable (not warping), solid, load-bearing, dry, and free of dirt, separating agents, and uneven areas before applying Microcement.
Sand down any uneven areas.
Choosing and applying the right primer for your Microcement project:
When applying Microcement to tiled floors or uneven floors: Use our 2K Leveling Compound to prime and level.
When applying Microcement to absorbent levelled floors that are dimensionally stable: Use our DEEP PRIMER, we recommend 2 layers.
When applying Microcement to non-absorbent levelled floors that are dimensionally stable: Use our 2K Bonding primer. 
Let the primer dry completely before proceeding with the Microcement. Applying Microcement on when the primer isn't properly dry, will result in cracking. 
Main Coating of Microcement on Floors

1. Start with the Microcement large-grained on your floor. Mix The Microcement powder Component A (Large Grain) with Component B according to the recommended ratio.
2. Add the recommended amount of WB pigment to your Microcement to achieve the desired color.
3. Pour the mixed and colored Microcement, spread it evenly with a trowel on your floor, and allow it to dry.
4. Sand down any unevenness in your Microcement that are over 1/8“ and vacuum the dust.

Apply a second layer Microcement on your floor within 24h using Medium Grain, following the same process.
Pro Tips: You can add up to 10% WB pigment to your Microcement to achieve deeper colors. Our Microcement sets include 2% pigment if you want a deeper color, we recommend buying WB pigment separately.
If more than 24 hours pass between Microcement layers, sand the first layer Microcement lightly and remove any dust. This will roughen the Microcement, improving adhesion and preventing the next layer Microcement from peeling.
Apply a small amount of Liquid B with a brush or roller on the sanded Microcement layer. Be careful not to oversaturate the surface.
Steps for Sealing Microcement with 2K PU Topcoat (48 Hours After the last Microcement layer):
Prepare the 2K PU Topcoat:

1. Mix PU Resin (A) with the PU Hardener (B) in a 2 to 1 mixing ratio (for example, 28fl.oz. resin A-component 2K PU Topcoat with 14fl.oz. hardener B-component 2K PU Topcoat)
2. Stir through the edge and bottom of the mixing cup as the 2K PU Topcoat components will settle there. Ideally, pour the 2K PU Topcoat mixture a clean mixing cup and mix again until it is streak-free. This ensures that the resin A-component and hardener B-component are completely mixed together.
3. Pour the mixed 2K PU Topcoat into a paint tray and apply it thinly with a roller in a criss-cross pattern.
4. Let the first coat 2K PU Topcoat cure and apply the second coat in the same way. We recommend applying the second coat 2K PU Topcaot after min. 6h but not more than 20h.
   Pro Tip for Flooring: Do not wear rubber-soled shoes while sanding, cleaning, after cleaning, or during the application of the 2K PU Topcoat, as rubber microparticles may cause an uneven finish. Rubber-soled shoes can be worn once the second coat of 2K PU Topcoat is cured. Wait until the 2K PU Topcoat is walkable (approx. 12 hours) before applying the second coat.
   Curing Time of the 2K PU Topcoat:
   The surface coated with 2K PU Topcoat will be walkable after 12 hours at 75°F and fully chemically cured after approximately 6 days.
   Pro Tips: Ensure Full Coverage: Apply the 2K PU Topcoat in two thin coats, using overlapping strokes. This significantly reduces the risk of missed spots and ensures complete sealing. We recommend applying 2 coats 2K PU Topcoat of each 0.28fl.oz./sqft.
   Pro Tip for when applying 2K PU Topcoat to a coarse Microcement finish: If your Microcement is very textured, you can apply the 2K PU Topcoat with a brush. Make sure to apply it very thinly!

Instructions for Use Microcement on furniture
Priming for Microcement
Surface Preparation for Microcement:
Ensure the furniture is dimensionally stable (not warping), ,solid, dry, and free of dirt, separating agents, and uneven areas before applying Microcement.
Sand down any uneven areas.
If required use our PUTTY PRIMER to level and prime your furniture before applying Microcement.
4. If the furniture where you want to apply Microcement is already leveled and smooth, use either our 2K Bonding Primer (for-non absorbent surfaces) or DEEP PRIMER (for absorbent surfaces) to prime your furniture where Microcement will be applied.
5.  Let the primer dry completely. Applying Microcement on when the primer isn't properly dry, will result in cracking. 
________________________________________
Main Coating of Microcement on Furniture

1. Start with the Microcement medium-grained on furniture. Mix Microcement A components in medium grain size with the Liquid B component in a ratio of 100:20 by weight (i.e 15.4lbs Powder A-component with 3lbs Liquid B-component).
2. Add 2% WB pigment to color the Microcement (i.e. 2×100g (3.5oz) WB Pigment to 15.4lbs Powder A-component and 3lbs Liquid B-component).
3. Spread the colored mixed Microcement thinly with a trowel on your furniture and allow to dry.
4. Sand off any unevenness in the Microcement greater than 1/8“ and vacuum up any sanding dust.
5. Apply a second coat of Microcement medium-grained on your furniture in the same way within 24 hours.
   Pro Tip: Up to 10% WB Pigment can be added to your Microcement for more intense colors. The Microcement set for furniture comes with 2% WB pigment, if you want a deeper color, you need to order more wb pigment. If you exceed 24 hours between the Microcement layers, sand the first layer and remove the dust. This roughens the microcemenet for better bonding and ensures the next layer Microcement won’t break off.
   On the sanded micro cement, use a light brush of liquid B. Brush or roll on a small amount to avoid flooding the Microcement.
   ________________________________________
   Sealing Instructions with PU (48 Hours After last coat of Microcement)

Note: When using Microcement in wet rooms, on surfaces exposed to direct water contact, or high-wear areas (e.g., floors, surfaces cleaned with aggressive detergents, or heavy mechanical loads), we recommend sealing Microcement with EPODEX Polyurethane Resin (2K PU Topcoat) in matt or glossy finish.
Steps for Sealing Microcement with 2K PU Topcoat:
Prepare the 2K PU Topcoat:

1. Mix PU Resin (A) with the PU Hardener (B) in a 2 to 1 mixing ratio (for example, 28fl.oz. resin A-component 2K PU Topcoat with 14fl.oz. hardener B-component 2K PU Topcoat)
2. Stir through the edge and bottom of the mixing cup as the 2K PU Topcoat components will settle there. Ideally, pour the 2K PU Topcoat mixture a clean mixing cup and mix again until it is streak-free. This ensures that the resin A-component and hardener B-component are completely mixed together.
3. Pour the mixed 2K PU Topcoat into a paint tray and apply it thinly with a roller in a criss-cross pattern.
4. Let the first layer 2K PU Topcoat cure and apply the second coat in the same way. We recommend applying the second coat 2K PU Topcoat after min. 6h but not more than 20h.
   Curing Time of the 2K PU Topcoat:
   The surface coated with 2K PU Topcoat will be walkable after 12 hours at 75°F and fully chemically cured after approximately 6 days.
   Pro Tips: Ensure Full Coverage: Apply the 2K PU Topcoat in two thin coats, using overlapping strokes. This significantly reduces the risk of missed spots and ensures complete sealing. We recommend applying 2 coats 2K PU Topcoat of each 0.28fl.oz./sqft.
   Pro Tip for when applying 2K PU Topcoat to a coarse Microcement finish: If your Microcement is very textured, you can apply the 2K PU Topcoat with a brush. Make sure to apply it very thinly!

If the Microcement is too thick, you can add more Liquid B to adjust its consistency.
Here are the recommended mixing ratios by Microcement grain-size:
Large Microcement: 100:25 to a maximum of 100:28 (by weight)
Medium Microcement: 100:20 to a maximum of 100:23 (by weight)
Please note that adding more liquid B to your Microcement, will lighten the color at the end.

It is completely normal not to see a strong Microcement effect after just one layer. The textured finish you're aiming for is typically achieved with two layers of Microcement. The first layer Microcement serves as a base, while the second layer Microcement helps to build up the texture and enhance the overall effect.

We offer three different grain sizes Microcement: large (80 µm), medium (330 µm).

No, when working on floors, you must start with a layer of large grain-size Microcement to provide higher compressive strength and durability.

CONCRETE EFFECT is a decorative, resin-modified, and fibre-reinforced Leveling compound designed to mimic the look of raw concrete. It is primarily used on walls and tiled surfaces to create a modern, industrial-style finish. The product is mixed with water and WB Pigments to achieve the desired color and is applied with a trowel for a smooth or textured appearance. Perfect for adding a stylish, cost-effective finish to interiors.

      1. Prepare the Substrate before applying CONCRETE EFFECT:

• Ensure the substrate where you want to apply CONCRETE EFFECT is stable, dry, and free of dirt, separating agents, and unevenness.
• Sand off any uneven areas.
  2. Applying the CONCRETE EFFECT
• Mix CONCRETE EFFECT powder with water in a weight ratio of 5:2 (e.g., 2.2lbs EFFECT powder with 0.1gal water).
• Add approximately 2% WB PIGMENT to your CONCRETE EFFECT+WATER MIXTURE (e.g., 2 x 100g bottles WB PIGMENT for 11lbs EFFECT powder mixed with 0.5gal of water).
  3. Application of the CONCRETE EFFECT:
• Apply the CONCRETE EFFECT evenly with a trowel.
• Working Time of the CONCRETE EFFECT: Approx. 30 minutes.
• Consumption Volume of the CONCRETE EFFECT: Approx. 0.24lb/sqft per 1/32” layer thickness.
• Drying Time of the CONCRETE EFFECT: Approx. 24 hours.
  Pro tips: Don’t mix the CONCRETE EFFECT bag all at once, as you will only have 30min to use it all. Proceed in small batches. Use cold water instead of hot water, hot water is easier to mix in the CONCRETE EFFECT but the working time is even shorter with hot water. Use cold water, it will take a bit more time to mix it in the CONCRETE EFFECT, but it will give you more working time.

The mixing ratio of the CONCRETE EFFECT is 5:2 (5 parts EFFECT powder to 2 parts water, e.g 2.2lbs CONCRETE EFFECT with 0.1gal Water).

The maximum coating height of the CONCRETE EFFECT is 10 cm per process at 70°F. Consumption of the CONCRETE EFFECT is approximately 0.24lb/sqft per 1/32“ layer thickness.

CONCRETE EFFECT dries and hardens mechanically in 20–24 hours, but full chemical hardening takes 7 days.

You have about 30 minutes of working time after mixing CONCRETE EFFECT, as it sets quickly. The pot life of CONCRETE EFFECT is also around 30 minutes due to its fast-setting nature.

The ideal temperature for working with CONCRETE EFFECT is between 50°F and 75°F, with 70°F being the optimal temperature for the best results.

CONCRETE EFFECT comes in a 11lbs bag, perfect for your projects.

CONCRETE EFFECT is unpigmented, has a matt finish, is VOC-free, and is UV-stable, making it both durable and environmentally friendly.

You can use WB Pigment with CONCRETE EFFECT and Water at a ratio of 2%. For example, if you’re mixing 11lbs of EFFECT powder with 4.4lbs of water, add 2 x 100g (3.5oz) WB Pigment bottles for the desired color.

Unfortunately, the 1K CONCRETE EFFECT Filler is not suitable for floors. For flooring, we recommend using Microcement, which is more durable and better suited for high traffic areas. We have a Microcement flooring set available.

We also recommend applying two extra layers of PU sealer on top of the Microcement for added protection.

Additionally, a primer should be used under the Microcement, depending on the type of surface. 

No, PUTTY PRIMER can not be used on floors as it is not resistant to heavy tear and wear. 

You always have to prime before applying Microcement. Choose the right primer for Microcement depending on where you want to apply it.

No, you do not need a primer under the CONCRETE EFFECT, it is only important to clean and degrease properly before applying the CONCRETE EFFECT. If you want to level tiled walls before applying CONCRETE EFFECT, you can use the PUTTY PRIMER or only use more CONCRETE EFFECT. 

You can make CONCRETE EFFECT waterproof by applying 2 layers of 2K PU Topcoat.

You can make Microcement waterproof by applying 2 layers of 2K PU Topcoat on it. 

Our Microcement can be applied in a pool but it must be sealed with our 2K PU Topcoat. Our Microcement alone without 2K PU Topcoat can’t be apply in a pool. We recommend applying at least 2 coats of 2K PU Topcoat and waiting until the 2K PU Topcoat is sealed before filling up the pool. 

Yes, you can apply Microcement outside. Please note that sun and temperature fluctuation can change the Microcement color. We recommend protecting your drying Microcement from the sun if possible. Make sure that it doesn’t’ rain during the process and for 48h after applying the Microcement. If the Microcement gets wet while drying it will stain it. The stain on your drying Microcement won’t go away.You’ll need for your wet Microcement to dry and reapply a new layer of Microcement to hide the stain caused by the Microcement getting wet while drying. 

Applying 2K PU Topcoat glossy on top of Microcement will slightly darken the color of the Microcement. Applying 2K PU Topcoat matte on top of Microcement will not significantly change the color of the Microcement.

If the existing floor has an expansion joint, there are two options to address it before applying Microcement:

1. Keep the Expansion Joint in the Microcement:
   If the expansion joint is retained within the Microcement, it can be sealed with silicone or acrylic after curing. This will help prevent dust and dirt from accumulating in the joint.
   2. Reinforce the Expansion Joint before applying Microcement:
   To Fill the expansion joint before applying Microcement, follow these steps:
2. Clear the expansion Joint of your floor.
3. Remove any silicone or filler from the joint.
4. Fill the expansion joint with epoxy ECO System mixed with quartz sand and allow it to cure fully.

After filling the expansion joint with ECO and Quarzsand has cured, follow this procedure to stabilize the substrate before applying Microcement:

1. Roll on a thin coat of epoxy resin and hardener ECO System over the entire area that needs reinforcement before applying Microcement and allow it to cure completely.
2. Roll on a second thin coat of ECO resin and hardener on the surface needing reinforcement before applying Microcement.
3. Immediately lay down the fibreglass mat (1oz/sqft is ideal for this step) on top of the second coat of ECO resin.
4. Apply another thin coat of ECO resin and hardener over the fibreglass to fix it in place and reinforce the surface before applying Microcement.

Note: One layer of fibreglass is sufficient to stabilise the substrate before proceeding with the Microcement application.
Important: Failing to properly stabilise the substrate can lead to cracking in the finished Microcement surface.

If your floor is stable and not moving there is no need to add an expansion joint before applying the Microcement. Make sure that your floor was built by professional and respect the building regulation.

If your floor is table and not moving, there is no need to add an expansion joint before applying Microcement. Make sure that your floor was built by professional and respect the building regulation.

Microcement acts a finishing layer. It is important to prepare your bathroom in accordance with the building regulation. This means that the bathroom must be sealed before applying the Microcement. 

We recommend waterproofing the tiles before applying Microcement.

When applying Microcement across multiple rooms, it is advisable to add an expansion joint into the Microcement only. Here's how to proceed:

Cut a joint into the Microcement when working across multiple rooms. To cut a joint into Microcement, use a circular saw to cut a line into the Microcement at the location of the door.
A 2mm joint in the Microcement between the rooms is sufficient for this purpose.
Seal the Microcement joint:

After cutting the joint into the Microcement, seal the Microcement joint with silicone or acrylic to prevent dust and debris from entering.

It is important to wait until the concrete, screed, Leveling compound is dry and is no longer moving before applying Microcement. Some screed and concrete, for example, in new buildings, will move for up to 1 year. It is important to wait until the concrete of screed is no longer moving to apply Microcement. To know how long you need to wait, please seek advice from the professional who laid the screed or concrete.

We do not recommend filling in cracks with Microcement. Microcement is made to be used as a topcoat and not a repairing product. We do not recommend applying Microcement to a cracked, or unstable substrate. You must repair and stabilise your floor before applying Microcement to it. 

If you apply a second layer of Microcement when the first layer isn’t dry properly, it can result in cracking. The excess humidity from the first layer will enter the second layer of Microcement causing cracking.

If you apply the 2nd layer Microcement when the 1st layer is too dry, it can cause bubbles. Microcement is porous and air from the first layer can come up in the 2nd layer Microcement resulting in bubbles. 

If you apply the Microcement when the primer isn’t dry, the humidity from the primer will come in the Microcement layer causing cracking.

Not applying a primer before applying Microcement can lead to the Microcement detaching itself from the substrate and bubbles, and cracks.

Microcement is applied with a trowel and it can be applied to vertical surfaces and slopes. 

No, our Microcement can’t be made so liquid that its self-level. We do not recommend adding more liquid B to the Microcement that the recommended ratio. Adding too much liquid B inside your Microcement can lead to discoloration. 

If you apply Microcement near a heat surface, in a hot room, or in a sunny area, it will cause the Microcement to harden faster. When Microcement hardens too quickly, it causes color differences, and it can also lead to cracking. 

If the temperature is too cold when applying the Microcement, the Microcement will take longer to cure. If the temperature is very low, the Microcement won’t be able to dry. Low temperature also causes color differences in the Microcement, it is important to have the right temperature when working with Microcement and keep the temperature constant. 

Microcement can be applied to a wooden floor with proper preparation. Wooden floor isn’t dimensionally stable and can move. It is important to stabilise the wooden floor before applying Microcement.

Microcement can be applied to a warping surface or a surfaces that isn’t dimensionally stable with proper preparation. It is important to stabilise not dimensionally stable surface before applying Microcement. Failling to stabilise the surface before applying Microcement will lead to cracks.

If you do not want to keep your existing joint into your Microcement, you’ll need to reinforce the expansion joint before applying Microcement:
To Fill the expansion joint before applying Microcement, follow these steps:

1. Clear the expansion Joint of your floor.
2. Remove any silicone or filler from the joint.
3. Fill the expansion joint with epoxy ECO System mixed with quartz sand and allow it to cure fully.

After filling the expansion joint with ECO and Quarzsand has cured, follow this procedure to stabilize the substrate before applying Microcement:

1. Roll on a thin coat of epoxy resin and hardener ECO System over the entire area that needs reinforcement before applying Microcement and allow it to cure completely.
2. Roll on a second thin coat of ECO resin and hardener on the surface needing reinforcement before applying Microcement.
3. Immediately lay down the fibreglass mat (1oz/sqft is ideal for this step) on top of the second coat of ECO resin.
4. Apply another thin coat of ECO resin and hardener over the fibreglass to fix it in place and reinforce the surface before applying Microcement.

Note: One layer of fibreglass is sufficient to stabilise the substrate before proceeding with the Microcement application.
Important: Failing to properly stabilise the substrate can lead to cracking in the finished Microcement surface

To achieve a seamless finish with Microcement on multiple surfaces such as wall and floor, or wall and furniture, you need to use the same grain size on the top layer. If you are using the same color Microcement but a different grain-size for the floor and wall, there will be a slight color different. To achieve a seamless wall and floor Microcement finish, you need to use the same grain size for the last layer.

The same WB pigment will look different in each Microcement grain size. The color differences between each Microcement grain size is visible when you put each grain size next to each other. 

The CONCRETE EFFECT grain size is a bit finer than the microcement medium grain.

No, the WB pigment color looks slightly different in each grain size Microcement and in the CONCRETE EFFECT. 

You can apply your next Microcement layer immediately after your roll on a thin layer of liquid B. 

Yes, you could use the Microcement floor set on walls if you want but we recommend buying the Microcement set for walls as it more cost effective for walls.

No, you must use the Microcement set for floors on your floor. It is important for the floor stability to start with a large grain size Microcement. The large grain size is only available in Microcement flooring set. 

Failing to prime under the Microcement can lead the the Microcement not bonding with the substrate. If a porous substrate isn’t primed, it can cause the Microcement to have bubbles. 

We recommend applying the layer of Microcement on the whole area on the same day. If you are working on different surfaces for example, different walls, it is possible to do one wall one day and the other wall another day. If you have to patch or redo part of the Microcement on a wall, it might be visible, it requires a lot of technics to be able to coat only part of the Microcement surface. 

Yes, it is possible to apply our Microcement inside a pool with our 2K PU Topcoat. It is important that your pool is watertight before applying our Microcement and 2K Topcoat in it. 

Yes, you can apply Microcement to the ceiling. We recommend using the Microcement wall set on ceilings.

Let your wet stained Microcement dry. If the stain on your Microcement go away, seal the Microcement with 2 layers of 2K PU Topcoat. If the stains on your Microcement do not go away, you will need to sand the Microcement and reapply a new layer of Microcement. Once the new layer of Microcement is dry, we recommend protecting it with 2 layers of our 2K PU Topcoat. 

If you have applied 2 coats of 2K PU Topcoat on top of your Microcement but the Microcement still changes colors when wet, it has not been sealed properly. The 2K PU Topcoat should be applied very thinly to the Microcement with a roller or a brush. We recommend applying 2 layers of 2K PU Topcoat in a criss-cross motion to ensure full coverage. This significantly reduces the risk of missed spots and ensures complete sealing. If you still missed a spot, and your sealed Microcement changes color when wet, we recommend applying another layer of 2K PU Topcoat.

If it rains on your Microcement before it is completely dry, you will need to wait until the Microcement is dry, sand the Microcement, apply a thin roll of liquid B and reapply another layer. Rain on drying Microcement can cause stains that will not go away after drying. 

We recommend using masking tape and plastic drop cloth on area you do not want to coat with Microcement. If you are using masking tape, remove it before the Microcement has completely dry for a clean edge.

 If the first layer of Microcement was looking good and the second layers of Microcement has bubbles in it. It means that the first layer was too dry and air from the first layer went up in the second layer causing bubbles. It could also be that the 2nd layer of Microcement was mixed too quickly and didn’t vent.

If the first layer of Microcement has bubble, it means that the substrate wasn’t prime properly and was porous. It can also happen if the Microcement is mixed too quickly and didn’t vent.

If you add a bit more of less WB pigment the color of your Microcement will be different.
If your Microcement is applied thicker or thinner, the color will be different
Each Microcement grain size have a slightly different color
If the Microcement dries too quickly (due to sun or heat) the color is different
If the Microcement had too much liquid B the color will be different
If the Wb pigment wasn’t well mixed in the Microcement there will be color difference.

It is essential to mix the Microcement slowly to ensure proper consistency and avoid air bubbles. Follow these steps:

Mixing:
Use an electric drill on the lowest power setting to mix Microcement.
Keep the mixing tool below the surface of the Microcement, avoiding rapid up-and-down motions.
Vent the Microcement Mixture:
Once the Microcement is well mixed, allow it to self-vent for up to 5 minutes before use. This step helps to release any trapped air and ensures a smooth, consistent Microcement texture.

The storage temperature of the Microcement should not be below 50°F. If Liquid B freezes, it cannot be used. Open bags of Microcement powder should be tightly sealed, as they can absorb moisture from the air, which may cause them to become unusable.

Bubbles in the Microcement can occur due to various factors, including: 

• Microcement was applied on porous substrate.
• Microcement mixture was too thick.
• Microcement was applied on a wet substrate.
• Incorrect waiting time between Microcement layers (either too long or too short)
  Unfortunately, once the Microcement has dried, it is not possible to remove the bubbles.To resolve the issue, we recommend the following:

Sand the Microcement Surface:

Sand the affected microcmeent area to smooth out the bubbles and irregularities.
Apply a Thin Coat of Liquid B:

Before applying a new layer of Microcement, apply a thin coat of Liquid B to seal the surface and prevent air from rising into the new layer.

Apply a New Layer of Microcement:

After preparing the surface, apply a fresh layer of Microcement to correct the appearance and ensure a smooth finish.

No, you can’t apply Microcement to a wet substrate as it cause the Microcement to crack or have bubbles when the substrate dries.

EPODEX is the brand and not a specific product. The instructions for use of each EPODEX’s product is different.

To apply Microcement to tiled walls, we recommend priming with our PUTTY PRIMER and then use our Microcement set for bathroom (wall option).

To apply Microcement to tiled floor, we recommend priming with our 2K LEVELING COMPOUND and then use our Microcement set for bathroom (floor option).

You need to mix your Microcement and CONCRETE EFFECT until the mixture of homogenous.

If you have small clumps inside your Microcement or CONCRETE EFFECT while applying, do not worry. Use your trowel and go over unmixed clumps of CONCRETE EFFECT and Microcement until they go away. 

Our 2K PU Topcoat only slightly darken the color of Microcement. The color changes are more visible with the 2K PU Topcoat glossy than matte.

No, you must remove the vinyl before applying Microcement.

Black lines on Microcement are burns from using a wrong trowel. It is important to use a rounded trowel with a thickness of maximum 1/8“ when applying Microcement.

The total layer thickness of the Microcement for floor is approx. 1/8“.

The layer thickness of 1 layer of the Microcement large-grained is 1/16“.

The layer thickness of 1 layer of the Microcement medium-grained is 1/16“.

Yes, it is possible to apply the Concrete Effect with our PU sealant on walls in the shower. 

Both Microcement and concrete effect are only resistant with the 2K PU Topcoat. With the 2K PU Topcoat both Microcement and Concrete Effect can be used in a shower for example. We do not recommend using Concrete Effect inside a pool. 

No, we do not recommend applying Microcement or Concrete effect inside a vehicle as the vibration of the vehicle would cause movement in the Microcement/Concrete Effect resulting in cracks. 

Yes, you can apply Concrete Effect on Furniture. Please note that Microcement is more resistant than Concrete effect and we recommend it for furniture subject to heavy tear and wear.- 

Bonding Primer 2K is a two-component product and it dries in 8 to 24 hours and is fully cured after 7 days.

No, it is not necessary to remove the paint on tiles before applying microcement. The 2K Leveling Compound and Putty Primer to prime and level the tiles before applying microcement, will stick to painted tiles.

No Microcement and Micrometal aren’t the same thing. Microcement is a decorative plaster for walls and floors with a concrete finish and Micrometal is a wall decorative plaster with a metallic finish.

No, we do not recommend applying microcement on top of bitumen because it is not structural nor load-bearing.

No, the 2K Leveling compound can only be used on floors.

You only need to sand between the microcement layers if you apply the next layer after more than 24h. If you apply the next layer microcement in less than 24h, you do not need to sand.

No, the 1K PRIMER is not a suitable primer under Microcement or Concrete Effect.

We do not have any other Microcement sets than the ones on the website but it is possible to order the microcement without pigment and use any of our WB Pigment inside the microcement.

Yes, we do have a Microcement sample set where you can select up to 10 colors to try it yourself.

The slip-resistance of Microcement depends on the grain-size, the application technic and the sealant. For wet conditions, it is usually around R11 or R12 in the DIN 51130 classification.

No, we do not recommend walking on microcement with spikes shoes as it could alter the finish. 

Yes, the consumption volume of the microcement is for the powder and the liquid B. 

Yes, it is possible to apply our microcement on underfloor heating.

The putty primer is made to level and primer irregular furniture or walls before applying microcement or a decorative plaster.

No, we do not have a microcement calculator.

We do recommend sanding the tiles before applying the putty primer.

No, you can’t add glitter into the concrete effect. If you wish to have a glittery plaster, we recommend our Micrometal.

The concrete effect can be sanded until smooth and painted over. 

The density of the liquid B for microcement is very similar to water.

We do not recommend applying DEEP PRIMER on metal, as DEEP PRIMER is suitable for absorbent surfaces.

No, you can’t apply the putty primer on a floor.

The 2K Levelling Compound has a curing time of 24h.

You can use for the 2K Levelling Compound sand the EP Color Paste.

We do not recomend to use epoxy resin to seal Microcement Floors

We do not recomend to use epoxy resin to seal Microcement Furniture

We do not recomend to use epoxy resin to seal Microcement 

We do not recomend to use epoxy resin to seal Microcement Walls

We do not recomend to use epoxy resin to seal Microcement Floors

We do not recomend to use epoxy resin to seal Microcement Furniture

We do not recomend to use epoxy resin to seal Microcement

We do not recomend to use epoxy resin to seal Microcement Walls

We recommend adding 2% wb pigment to the microcement mixture (Microcement powder and Liquid B). It is important to calculate the amount of WB Pigment for the microcement mixture and not only the microcement powder. 

The amount of WB pigment added into the Concrete effect is calculated for the Mixture (concrete effect+water). We recommend approx. 2% WB pigment into the Concrete effect+Water Mixture, orders are delivered with a little bit extra pigment to achieve a more intense color if wanted. We delivere 2x100g WB pigment for 11lbs Concrete effect and 0.5gal water, which is a mixing ratio of 2.8%. 

You can use putty primer under the tile paint on walls, but please note that tile paint only gives a new color and the different texture (tiles and putty primer) will remain visible.

When buying the PU topcoat without microcement, the quantities are calculated for 1 coat. We recommend doubling the PU topcoat quantities when buying the PU topcoat separately. In the Microcement sets, the quantities PU topcoat are calculated for 2 coats. 

Yes, you can apply a water-based or resin-based paint on top of the microcement without PU Topcoat. We recommend our PU Paint to paint over microcement without PU topcoat. Our metallic brush effect can also be painted on microcement if desired.

No, you do not need another primer on top of the Putty primer before applying microcement. 

Yes, it is possible to paint over your microcement, no primer is required to paint over microcement. 

No, the consumption volume of microcement represents the quantity of microcement powder and liquid b required per sqft.

We recommend waiting 24h after applying the Putty primer before applying the microcement.

It is important to level the grout before applying the microcement. The microcement shouldn’t be used to level a surface.

No, it is only necessary to use fiberglass mesh to reinforced an unstable flooring or on existing expansion joint (if you do not wish to have the joint also in the microcement) when using microcement. Stable, nonmoving flooring do not require to be reinforced with fiberglass mesh before applying microcement. 

Yes, the microcement set for furniture can be used used to coat a bench or countertop. The microcement set for furniture can be used for furniture subjected to load or heavy tear and wear. It is important that the furniture is stable before applying the microcement set for furniture.

The maximum depth allowed with the 2k Leveling compound ist 1 3/16”.

The working time of the putty primer is approx. 30min.

The deep primer is ready to use liquid and doesn’t have a working time. 

The working time of the 2k bonding primer is approx. 90min. 

It is possible to select any of our WB pigment and add it to our Microcement.

It is normal that your Microcement large grain looks grainy and has small black dot, this is the normal look of the large grain size Microcement.

The Microcement set for bathroom gives you the option to show a set for walls or floor in a medium grain size finish and already includes the 2K PU Topcoat. The primer isn’t include. We recommend buying the right Microcement primer separately.

The Microcement set for tiles allows your to select a set for tiled walls or tiled floor. Each Microcement set for tile includes the right primer for your Microcement (PUTTY PRIMER for tiled walls that will be coated with Microcement or 2K LEVELING COMPOUND for tiled floor that will be coated with Microcement) and the Microcement in the grain size finish of your choice. The 2K PU Topcoat is optional on the Microcement set for tiles page.

The rock design wall is a decorative technique with the CONCRETE EFFECT to achieve a rock-like finish on walls.

1. The CONCRETE EFFECT is applied in 2 layers to achieve the rock design wall. Each layer of CONCRETE EFFECT requires approximately the same amount of material to achieve the rock design wall.
2. We do not recommend mixing more than 5.5lbs of CONCRETE EFFECT at once, as the material thickens quickly. Processing Time of the CONCRETE EFFECT: approx. 30min.
3. Mix the CONCRETE EFFECT Powder with water in a 5:2 mixing ratio (e.g. 5.5lbs Powder with 0.25gal water).
4. Color the concrete by adding approx. 2% WB Pigment to it. (e.g. 1x 100g (3.5oz) WB Pigment to 5.5lbs EFFECT Powder and 0.25gal water).
5. Apply a thin layer of the CONCRETE EFFECT using a trowel.
6. Let the CONCRETE EFFECT at least 30min before applying the second layer to achieve the rock design wall.
7. Mix fresh CONCRETE EFFECT for the rock design again and use 2 trowels to dab it onto the surface until it is fully textured.
8. Smooth the texture using a clean trowel with light pressure. Move the trowel from top to bottom to achieve the rock design wall.
9. Finally, lightly dab the surface with a bristly brush to create additional texture on your rock design wall.

By moving the trowel in another direction, you will achieve a different texture and the finish will not match the one seen on our website for the rock design wall.

We recommend rounded trowels with a thickness of max. 1/8” when working with our CONCRETE EFFECT and the rock design wall.

We recommend applying 2 layers to achieve the rock design wall.

Rock design wall is a technic using the CONCRETE EFFECT.

No, we do not recommend using our rock design set on floors, this set is only for walls.

11lbs CONCRETE EFFECT and 2x100g (3.5oz) WB Pigment are sufficient to cover 3m² when doing the rock design wall effect.

Yes, you could use a trowel and dap the CONCRETE EFFECT onto a spatula instead of using 2 trowels when applying the second layer of CONCRETE EFFECT for the rock design wall. Using 2 trowels for the second layer of CONCRETE EFFECT on the rock design wall is faster than using 1 trowel and 1 spatula. 

When applying the rock design on a large area, we recommend working from top to bottom in section as the CONCRETE EFFECT is quick setting.

We recommend waiting a min. of 30min before applying the second layer of CONCRETE EFFECT to achieve the rock design. The first layer of CONCRETE EFFECT should be dry before applying the second layer to achieve the rock design. There is no max. limit of time between the layer of CONCRETE EFFECT to achieve the rock design.

Yes, the 1st layer of CONCRETE EFFECT should cover the whole wall and be opaque before applying the 2nd layer of CONCRETE EFFECT to achieve the rock design. 

Yes, it is possible to apply the rock design set with CONCRETE EFFECT directly on tiles, please note that it might require extra product to fill out the grout. It is also possible to fill out the grout of tiled walls with putty primer before using our rock design set.

No, priming isn’t required before using CONCRETE EFFECT. Please note that putty primer can be used to fill out the grout of tiles to minimize the amount of CONCRETE EFFECT afterwards.

The smallest rock design set available is 11lbs CONCRETE EFFECT for 32sqft.

We recommend achieving the rock design wall with CONCRETE EFFECT instead of microcement. The look is easier achieved with CONCRETE EFFECT as it is a 1-component product. CONCRETE EFFECT is also easier to sand and fix if the rock design should be removed.

MICROMETAL is a metallic decorative plaster for walls.

MICROMETAL is a plaster and metallic brush effect is a paint.

• Add the supplied metallic pigment to the MICROMETAL decorative plaster to color it and mix thoroughly.
• Apply a thin layer of the colored MICROMETAL over the entire area using a trowel and let the MICROMETAL dry before continuing with the second layer MICROMETAL.
• Use both trowels to dab the second layer MICROMETAL onto the surface until it is fully textured.
• Smooth the textured MICROMETAL using a clean trowel with light pressure. Move the trowel from top to bottom. Let the MICROMETAL dry completely.
• Pro tips: When using MICROMETAL on large areas, dab the second layer MICROMETAL in section from top to bottom and smooth out each section to prevent the MICROMETAL from drying completely.

The smallest size MICROMETAL available is 1.18gal.

You need approximatively 1.8oz MICROMETAL per sqft.

MICROMETAL is air-drying, it doesn’t have a pot life as it is not curing by chemical reaction. The processing time of MICROMETAL depends on the room temperature, we recommend working at 70°F which will give you approx. 1h to dab the MICROMETAL on the surface and smooth it out. Using MICROMETAL at a higher temperature reduces the working time.

Yes, you can add the metallic pigment into your MICROMETAL, mix it, close the lid, and use the MICROMETAL later.

The MICROMETAL comes in 1.18gal buckets only.

No, MICROMETAL is only for walls.

MICROMETAL can be used at temperature between 40°F and 95°F.

MICROMETAL is resistant to mold and fungus.

MICROMETAL can be used on concrete, metal, plastic, wood, and other types of walls.

Yes, MICROMETAL can be used indoors.

Yes, MICROMETAL can be used outdoors with our Polyurethane topcoat.

Yes, MICROMETAL can be used in wet rooms such as bathrooms and basements with our Polyurethane topcoat.

We recommend applying MICROMETAL with a trowel.

No, MICROMETAL doesn’t have a strong smell. MICROMETAL has a low odour during application.

We recommend adding 2.5% pigment into the MICROMETAL. Add 125g metallic pigment into the 1.18gal MICROMETAL bucket.

No, primer is not required under MICROMETAL. 

The substrate on which you will apply MICROMETAL should be smooth, dry, free from dirt, release agents and unevenness. 

To apply MICROMETAL on tiles or other uneven surfaces, we recommend to level with our Putty Primer before applying MICROMETAL.

2 Layers of MICROMETAL are required to achieve the finish seen on our website.

The drying time of MICROMETAL is 24h at 70°F. The drying time of MICROMETAL can be different depending on the sun exposure and room temperature.

MICROMETAL is an acrylic-based decorative plaster.

We do not recommend applying MICROMETAL with a brush or roller.

We recommend applying polyurethane resin on top of the dried MICROMETAL to make it waterproof and easy to clean and maintain. 

No, MICROMETAL can’t be diluted/thinned.

No, MICROMETAL is not resistant to abrasion or scratch. To achieve a scratch resistant surface you must apply polyurethane on top of MICROMETAL.

MICROMETAL is open to diffusion unless polyurethane is applied as a topcoat.

Yes, MICROMETAL is colorfast.

The unpigmented MICROMETAL is white, slightly metallic when unpigmented. 

Yes, MICROMETAL is UV-resistant.

Yes, MICROMETAL is solvent-free.

We do not have any information regarding the VOC content of MICROMETAL.

Yes, MICROMETAL is environmentally friendly.

MICROMETAL has a density of 9.18lb/gal.

We recommend cleaning the tools and accessories with water immediately after using MICROMETAL.

We recommend dusting with microfibre cloth walls coated with MICROMETAL without PU topcoat. 

We recommend cleaning MICROMETAL with polyurethane topcoat with light surfactants (do not use acidic or chlorinated cleaners 
or alkaline solutions).

The pH value of MICROMETAL is 7.9.

We recommend storing MICROMETAL sealed at room temperature. Do not expose MICROMETAL to sunlight.

The shelf life of MICROMETAL before opening is 12 months when stored properly.

The shelf life of MICROMETAL after opening is 6 months when stored properly.

The maximal storage temperature of MICROMETAL is 75°F.

The minimal storage temperature of MICROMETAL is 50°F.

Yes, MICROMETAL outdoors or in wet rooms without polyurethane topcoat/sealant will not have a good resistance. 

Any unwanted irregularities can be smoothed or leveled while the material is still damp. Sun exposure and heat can cause MICROMETAL to crack.

Sun exposure and heat can cause MICROMETAL to have color variations.

It is important to smooth out the MICROMETAL with a trowel while it is still damp. Once MICROMETAL is dried it can only be sanded.

The micrometal is available in satin gray, platinum silver, Havana bronze, shimmer gold, yellow gold, wine red, bronze red, coffee brown, bronze brown, olive green, intense anthracite, deep black, flame copper, lotus lilac, rose red, pacific turquoise, and sky blue. 

The 2K PU Topcoat is fully aliphatic polyurethane resin. 

The 2K PU Paint is fully aliphatic polyurethane resin.

The 2K PU Paint has a mixing ratio of 3 to 1 for example, 42fl.oz. A-component Resin 2K PU Paint with 14fl.oz. B-component Hardener 2K PU Paint. 

The 2K PU Topcoat reaches a layer thickness in average 70 µm. The consumption volume and layer thickness of the 2K PU Topcoat may vary depending on the substrate's porosity and absorption.

The 2K PU Topcoat can be applied to floors, walls, and furniture made of concrete, wood, metal, tiles, microcement, epoxy, concrete effect, and more. The 2K PU Topcoat is compatible on all clean, dry substrate, except some plastics.

To use the 2K PU Topcoat, the substrate should be stable, dry, and free from dust, dirt, and release agents. Sanding is recommended before using the 2K PU Topcoat.

We recommend applying 2 coats of 2K PU Topcoat in a criss-cross motion to ensure that the surface is perfectly sealed.

In average, 0.28fl.oz/sqft 2K PU Topcoat is required per coat. We recommend two coats of 2K PU Topcoat. The consumption volume of the 2K PU Topcoat may vary depending on the substrate's porosity and absorption.

The 2K PU Topcoat should be mixed in a ratio of 2:1. For example, mix 28fl.oz 2K PU Topcoat A-component with 14fl.oz. 2K PU Topcoat B-component.

The 2K PU Topcoat is suitable on horizontal and vertical surfaces, both indoor and outdoor use.

The substrate and the ambient temperature must be minimum 40°F and maximum 85°F for the application of the 2K PU Topcoat. We recommend a temperature of 70°F when applying the 2K PU Topcoat.

The 2K PU Topcoat can be applied with a brush, roller, or spray gun.

Yes, the 2K PU Topcoat has a strong smell.  

Yes, maximal air humidity when using the 2K PU Topcoat is 75%. 

Yes, the 2K PU Topcoat is transparent.

We recommend applying the second coat 2K PU Topcoat after min. 6h but not more than 20h. When working on a floor, you need to wait until the 2K PU Topcoat is walkable (approx. 12 hours) before applying the second coat.

If you apply the second coat 2K PU Topcoat after more than 20h, we recommend sanding to increase adhesion between the coats.

The pot life for the 2K PU Topcoat is 90 minutes at 80°F.

The 2K PU Topcoat is available in matte or glossy. 

The consistency of the 2K PU Topcoat is smooth. 

The 2K PU Topcoat is dust-free at 80°F and 60% humidity level in 60 minutes after application.

Yes, the 2K PU Topcoat is thinnable with PU solvent (approximately 10%). We do not sell the PU solvent.

The 2K PU Topcoat is touch dry/walkable after 12 hours. 

The 2K PU Topcoat is loadable after 72 hours. 

The 2K PU Topcoat is fully cured after 6 days. 

The 2K PU Topcoat is UV-Resistant, Non-yellowing, elastic (non-cracking even on warping surfaces), scratch resistant, waterproof, chemical resistant, and highly durable.

Yes, the 2K PU Topcoat is scratch/abrasion resistant. A weight loss of 65mg was registered on the Taber abrasion test conducted on the 2K PU Topcoat after 6 days. (1000 rotations with a grinding wheel on 2.2lbs pressure)

No, the 2K PU Topcoat is not open to diffusion/ breathable.

Yes, the 2K PU Topcoat is UV-Resistant. 

No, the 2K PU Topcoat is not solvent-free. 

No, the 2K PU Topcoat is resistant to abrasion marks. 

The 2K PU Topcoat has a viscosity of 1200-1400 cP at 80°F. 

The density of the 2K PU Topcoat is 74.9 ± 3.1 lb/ft³at 80°F. 

You can clean the tools immediately after using the 2K PU Topcoat with thinner. 

We recommend cleaning the fully cured 2K PU Topcoat with light surfactants. We do not recommend using acidic or chlorinated cleaners or alkaline solutions when cleaning the 2K PU Topcoat. Do not clean the 2K PU Topcoat before complete chemical curing.

You can only store the 2K PU Topcoat in the original container, tightly closed, in a cool, frost-free place, and in the dark. Protect the 2K PU Topcoat from sunlight.

The shelf life of the 2K PU Topcoat before opening is 12 months. The shelf life can be significantly shortened if the storage conditions are not properly followed.

The shelf life after opening of the 2K PU Topcoat is 6 months. The shelf life can be significantly shortened if the storage conditions are not properly followed.

Store the 2K PU Topcoat between min. 45°F and max. 80°F. 

The 2K PU Topcoat is a transparent 2-components polyurethane topcoat. The 2K PU Topcoat is a universal topcoat, as it can be used on various substrates.

The 2K PU Paint is a colored 2-components polyurethane paint. The 2K PU Paint is a universal paint, as it can be used on various substrates.

The 2K PU Paint can be applied to floors, walls, and furniture made of concrete, wood, metal, tiles, and more. The 2K PU Paint is compatible on all clean, dry substrate, except some plastics.

The 2K PU Paint is suitable on horizontal and vertical surfaces, both indoor and outdoor use.

You can apply the 2K PU Paint with a brush, roller or a spray gun.

In average, 0.29fl.oz/sqft 2K PU Paint is required per coat. We recommend two coats of 2K PU Paint. The consumption volume of the 2K PU Paint may vary depending on the substrate's porosity and absorption.

Yes, the 2K PU Topcoat has a strong smell.  

The substrate and the ambient temperature must be minimum 40°F and maximum 85°F for the application of the 2K PU Paint. We recommend a temperature of 70°F when applying the 2K PU Paint.

Yes, maximal air humidity when using the 2K PU Paint is 75%. 

We recommend adding 5% EP Color Paste to the 2K PU Paint mixture, e.g. 100g (3.5oz) EP Color paste to 56fl.oz 2K PU Paint (42fl.oz. A-component and 14fl.oz. B-component). 

In average, the 2K PU Paint has a thickness of 70 µm. The consumption volume and layer thickness may vary depending on the substrate's porosity and absorption.

To use the 2K PU Paint, the substrate should be stable, dry, and free from dust, dirt, and release agents. Sanding is recommended when using the 2K PU Paint.

We recommend applying the second coat 2K PU Topcoat after min. 3h but not more than 20h. When working on a floor, you need to wait until the 2K PU Topcoat is walkable (approx. 6 hours) before applying the second coat.

The pot life for the 2K PU Paint is 90 minutes at 80°F.

The 2K PU Paint is available in matte or glossy. 

The consistency of the 2K PU Paint is smooth.

Yes, the 2K PU Paint is thinnable with PU solvent (5-10%).

The 2K PU Topcoat is dust-free at 80°F and 60% humidity level in 40 minutes after application.

The 2K PU Paint is touch dry/walkable after 6 hours.

The 2K PU Paint is loadable after 24 hours.

The 2K PU Paint is fully cured after 6 days.

The 2K PU Paint is UV-Resistant, Non-yellowing, elastic (non-cracking even on warping surfaces), scratch resistant, waterproof, chemical resistant, and highly durable.

Yes, the 2K PU Topcoat is scratch/abrasion resistant. A weight loss of 65mg was registered on the Taber abrasion test conducted on the 2K PU Paint after 6 days. (1000 rotations with a grindin wheel on 2.2lbs pressure)

No, the 2K PU Paint is not open to diffusion/breathable.

Yes, the 2K PU Paint is colorfast. 

The 2K PU Paint is pre-tinted in white. 

Yes, the 2K PU Paint is UV-Resistant.

No, the 2K PU Paint is not solvent-free.

No, the 2K PU Paint is resistant to abrasion marks.

The 2K PU Paint has a viscosity of 400-500 cP at 70°F. 

The density of the 2K PU Paint is 74.9 ± 3.12 lb/ft³ at 70°F. 

You can clean the tools immediately after using the 2K PU Paint with thinner.

We recommend cleaning the fully cured 2K PU Paint with light surfactants. We do not recommend using acidic or chlorinated cleaners or alkaline solutions when cleaning the 2K PU Paint. Do not clean the 2K PU Paint before complete chemical curing.

You can only store the 2K PU Paint in the original container, tightly closed, in a cool, frost-free place, and in the dark. Protect the 2K PU Paint from sunlight.

The shelf life of the 2K PU Paint before opening is 12 months. The shelf life can be significantly shortened if the storage conditions are not properly followed.

The shelf life after opening of the 2K PU Paint is 6 months. The shelf life can be significantly shortened if the storage conditions are not properly followed.

Store the 2K PU Paint between min. 45°F and max. 80°F. 

We recommend waiting until the epoxy resin is fully cured before applying the 2K PU Topcoat.

Yes, you can apply the glossy 2K PU Topcoat on cured epoxy resin.

Yes, you can apply the glossy 2K PU Topcoat on top of the 2K PU Topcoat matte.

Yes, you can apply the matte 2K PU Topcoat on top of the 2K PU Topcoat glossy.

Yes, the 2K PU Topcoat will give a smooth finish, similar to epoxy resin.

We recommend wearing nitrile gloves (Class 3 for short-term use and Class 5 for longer or repeated contact) when using our 2K PU Topcoat or 2K PU Paint. We also recommend wearing a respiratory mask of class M3 or higher while mixing and processing the 2K PU Topcoat or 2K PU Paint.

Yes, it is possible to put the 2K PU Topcoat in contact with food after full chemical curing. 

Yes, it is possible to put the 2K PU Paint in contact with food after full chemical curing.

Unfortunately, we don’t sell the solvent for the 2K PU Topcoat. In general, the 2K PU Topcoat doesn’t need to be diluted.

Unfortunately, we don’t sell the solvent for the 2K PU Paint. In general, the 2K PU Paint doesn’t need to be diluted.

The heat resistance is the 2K PU Topcoat is 175°F.

The heat resistance is the 2K PU Paint is 175°F.

Yes, you can add 1% microglass beads into the 2K PU Topcoat to achieve a non-slip finish. For example, add 15g Microglass beads into 42fl.oz. 2K PU Topcoat mixture (28fl.oz. A-component and 14fl.oz. B-component). Adding microglass beads can alter the transparency of the 2K PU topcoat. Adding microglass beads into the glossy 2K PU Topcoat can mattify the 2K PU Topcoat.

Yes, you can add 1% microglass beads into the 2K PU Paint to achieve a non-slip finish. For example, add 15g(0.5oz) Microglass beads into 56fl.oz. 2K PU Paint mixture (42fl.oz A-component and 14fl.oz. B-component). Adding microglass beads can alter the color of the 2K PU Paint. Adding microglass beads into the glossy 2K PU Topcoat can mattify the 2K PU Paint.

Yes, you can apply epoxy paint on top of the 2K PU Paint, but this doesn’t have any advantages as the 2K PU Paint is UV resistant and non-yellowing.

Yes, you can apply epoxy resin on top of the 2K PU Topcoat, but this doesn’t have any advantages as the 2K PU Topcoat is UV resistant and non-yellowing.

Yes, you can apply epoxy resin on top of the 2K PU Paint, but this doesn’t have any advantages as the 2K PU Paint is UV resistant and non-yellowing.

Yes, you can apply the 2K PU Paint on epoxy paint. We recommend cleaning and sanding the epoxy paint before applying the 2K PU Paint.

Yes, you can apply the 2K PU Paint on epoxy resin. We recommend waiting until the epoxy resin is fully cured and sanding before applying the 2K PU Paint.

Yes, you can apply the 2K PU Topcoat on epoxy resin. We recommend waiting until the epoxy resin is fully cured and sanding before applying the 2K PU Topcoat.

Yes, you can apply the 2K PU Topcoat on acrylic paint. We recommend waiting until the paint is fully dry before applying the 2K PU Topcoat.

Yes, 2K PU Topcoat is resistant to chlore. You can use it in a pool. To ensure the longevity of your 2K PU Topcoat always keep the water pH between 7.2-7.6.

Yes, 2K PU Paint – Pool Paint is resistant to chlore. To ensure the longevity of your 2K PU Paint – Pool Paint always keep the water pH between 7.2-7.6.

Yes, the Pool Paint can be used in any type of pool. The Pool Paint can be used in chlorine, saltwater, and mineral pools indoors and outdoors.

Yes, you can apply the 2K PU Paint on top of your old epoxy resin floor. The 2K PU Paint is opaque and will cover the old epoxy resin flooring. 

No, the 2K PU Paint is pre-tinted in white and therefore only available in white and pastel colors.

We do not recommend adding EP Color Paste to the 2K PU Topcoat, as the color will always be see-through. You’ll not achieve an opaque coating by adding EP Color Paste into the 2K PU Topcoat.  

The type of roller used to apply the 2K PU Topcoat depends on the substrate. We recommend using a foam roller on very smooth, non-absorbent surfaces and a lint-free paint roller on irregular, absorbent surfaces. 

The type of roller used to apply the 2K PU Paint depends on the substrate. We recommend using a foam roller on very smooth, non-absorbent surfaces and a lint-free paint roller on irregular, absorbent surfaces.

Yes, you can apply the 2K PU Paint on top of microcement if you wish to change cover the microcement.

It is possible to use the 2K PU Paint to paint over a stone carpet. If you want to achieve a smooth surface, we recommend filling the stone carpet with PU Filler before painting over with 2K PU Paint.

Yes, you can use the 2K PU Topcoat to protect a painting or a mural.

No, the 2K PU Paint can’t be used as a sealing slurry. The 2K PU Paint will not stop the water rising by capillarity. If water rises by capillarity, the 2K PU Paint will peel off.

No, the 2K PU Topcoat can’t be used as a sealing slurry. The 2K PU Topcoat will not stop the water rising by capillarity. If water rises by capillarity, the 2K PU Topcoat will peel off. 

If you apply the 2K PU Topcoat on a wet or damp substrate, the 2K PU Topcoat will peel off.

If you apply the 2K PU Paint on a wet or damp substrate, the 2K PU Paint will peel off.

While it is possible to add metallic pigment into the 2K PU Topcoat, please note that adding metallic pigment into the 2K PU Topcoat will add a shimmer to the 2K PU Topcoat you won’t achieve a full metallic look like you would with epoxy resin.

We do not recommend adding metallic pigment to the 2K PU Paint as it is pre-tinted in white and the metallic pigment won’t be visible.

Yes, applying the 2K PU Topcoat on top of epoxy resin will not stop the yellowing completely. Applying the 2K PU Topcoat on top of epoxy resin will reduce and slow-down yellowing.

Cutting on the PU Topcoat can result in microplastic on the cutlery and your food.

You can apply our 2K PU topcoat with the glossy finish on a scratched surface. The 2K PU Topcoat will hide the superficial scratches and allow you to achieve a glossy surface easily.

Yes, it is possible to apply our polyurethane (2K PU Topcoat or 2K PU Paint) on top of an old PU paint. We recommend sanding and cleaning the old PU Paint before applying our 2K PU paint or 2K PU Topcoat.

Yes, our 2K PU Paint and 2K PU Topcoat are elastic and can be applied to moving or warping surfaces without reinforcement. 2K PU Paint or 2K PU Topcoat can be applied inside van or on warping wood for example.

When spraying the 2K PU Topcoat, it is possible to use HVLP (High Volume, Low Pressure), conventional air spray or airless spray gun. We recommend using a 1/16” to 5/64” spray nozzle for the 2K PU Topcoat. A 3/64” to 1/16” spray nozzle can be used to spray the 2K PU Topcoat when diluted with PU solvent.

When spraying the 2K PU Paint, it is possible to use HVLP (High Volume, Low Pressure), conventional air spray or airless spray gun. We recommend using a 1/16” to 5/64” spray nozzle for the 2K PU Paint. A 3/64” to 1/16” spray nozzle can be used to spray the 2K PU Paint when diluted with PU solvent.

Yes, it is possible to add stickers on the 2K PU Paint. If you wish to protect the stickers with 2K PU Topcoat, we recommend testing it on one sticker to confirm compatibility.

Yes, it is possible to add stickers on the epoxy resin. If you wish to protect the stickers with 2K PU Topcoat, we recommend testing it on one sticker to confirm compatibility.

Yes, the 2K PU Paint and the 2K PU Topcoat can be sprayed on asphalt, concrete, wood, and more.

No, the 2K PU Paint – Pool Paint can’t be used as a sealing slurry. Your pool must be waterproof before painting it with our 2K PU Paint – Pool Paint. 

No, you can’t use the 2K PU Paint to waterproof your surface. The surface must be waterproof before applying the 2K PU Paint. 

Yes, you can apply our 2K PU Paint on glass, but the glass must be sanded and cleaned before applying our 2K PU Paint on it.

Yes, you can apply our 2K PU Topcoat on glass, but the glass must be sanded and cleaned before applying our 2K PU Topcoat on it.

It is never recommended to apply a coating on top of a photovoltaic panel as it can reduce the panel’s efficiency, as well as interfering with the thermal expansion and heat dissipation. If you don’t mind your panel being less efficient and other possible complications, you can apply our 2K PU Topcoat on top of a photovoltaic panel as the 2K PU Topcoat will adhere to the surface.

Yes, 2K PU Paint is resistant to plasticizers. It allows contact with various types of plastic and rubber (such as wheels) without causing any discoloration or damage to the coating.

Yes, 2K PU Topcoat is resistant to plasticizers. It allows contact with various types of plastic and rubber (such as wheels) without causing any discoloration or damage to the coating.

Yes, it is possible to apply the 2K PU Topcoat on top of the 1K Paints such as Metallic Brush effect, Acrylic Protect, etc.

Yes, it is possible to apply the 2K PU Paint on top of the 1K Paints such as Metallic Brush effect, Acrylic Protect, etc.

No, you can’t pour the 2K PU Topcoat, but you can apply more layers. The thickness is in average 70µm for one coat. 

No, you can’t pour the 2K PU Paint, but you can apply more layers. The thickness is in average 100µm for one coat. 

Yes, you can use the 2K PU Paint for your boat, it’s suitable for a contact with sea water and freshwater.

Yes, you can use the 2K PU Topcoat for your boat, it’s suitable for a contact with sea water and freshwater.

Yes, it is possible to apply the 2K PU Paint or 2K PU Topcoat on top of epoxy resin and fiberglass.

 Instructions For Use 2K PU Topcoat

1. Ensure the substrate is stable, clean, dry, and free from any substances that may prevent proper adhesion. We recommend increasing the adhesion by sanding.
2. Mix the resin 2K PU Topcoat A-component and the hardener 2K PU Topcoat B-component in a 2 to 1 mixing ratio (e.g. 28fl.oz. resin 2K PU Topcoat A-component with 14fl.oz. hardener PU Topcoat B-component).
3. Stir through the edge and bottom of the mixing cup as the 2K PU Topcoat components will settle there. Ideally, pour into a clean mixing cup and mix again until the mixture is streak-free. This ensures that the resin A-component and hardener B-component are completely mixed together.
4. Pour the 2K PU Topcoat mixture into a paint tray and apply it thinly with a roller in a criss-cross pattern.
5. Let the first coat 2K PU Topcoat cure and apply the second coat in the same way. We recommend applying the second coat 2K PU Topcoat after min. 6h but not more than 20h.
   Pro Tip for Flooring: Do not wear rubber-soled shoes while sanding, cleaning, after cleaning, or during the application of the 2K PU Topcoat, as rubber microparticles may cause an uneven finish. Rubber-soled shoes can be worn once the second coat of 2K PU Topcoat is cured. Wait until the 2K PU Topcoat is walkable (approx. 12 hours) before applying the second coat.

Instructions For Use 2K PU Paint

1. Ensure the substrate is stable, clean, dry, and free from any substances that may prevent proper adhesion. We recommend increasing the adhesion by sanding.
2. Shake both 2K PU Paint components individually before use. Then, mix the resin A-component and the hardener B-component in a 3 to 1 mixing ratio (e.g. 42fl.oz. resin A-component 2K PU Paint with 14fl.oz. hardener B-component 2K PU Paint). Add 5% EP Color Paste to the resin-hardener 2K PU Paint mixture to color it (e.g. 100g (3.5oz) EP Color Paste to 56fl.oz. resin-hardener 2K PU Paint mixture).
3. Stir through the edge and bottom of the mixing cup as the 2K PU Paint will settle there. Ideally, pour into a clean mixing cup and mix again until the mixture is streak-free. This ensures that the resin A-component and hardener B-component are completely mixed together.
4. Pour the 2K PU Paint mixture into a paint tray and apply it thinly with a roller in a criss-cross pattern.
5. Let the first coat cure and apply the second coat in the same way. We recommend applying the second coat after min. 3h but not more than 20h.
   Pro Tip for Flooring: Do not wear rubber-soled shoes while sanding, cleaning, after cleaning, or during the application of the 2K PU Paint, as rubber microparticles may cause an uneven finish. Rubber-soled shoes can be worn once the second coat of 2K PU Paint is cured. Wait until the 2K PU Paint is walkable (approx. 6 hours) before applying the second coat.

Instructions For Use 2K PU Paint – Pool Paint

1. Ensure the pool is sealed, stable, clean, dry, and free from any substances that may prevent proper adhesion. We recommend increasing the adhesion by sanding.
2. Shake both 2K PU Paint components individually before use. Then, mix the resin A-component and the hardener B-component in a 3 to 1 mixing ratio (e.g. 42fl.oz. resin A-component 2K PU Paint with 14fl.oz. hardener B-component 2K PU Paint). Add 5% EP Color Paste to the 2K PU Paint resin-hardener mixture to color it (e.g. 100g (3.5oz) EP Color Paste to 56fl.oz. resin-hardener 2K PU Paint mixture).
3. Stir through the edge and bottom of the mixing cup as the 2K PU Paint compoenents will settle there. Ideally, pour into a clean mixing cup and mix again until the mixture is streak-free. This ensures that the resin A-component and hardener B-component are completely mixed together.
4. Pour the mixture into a paint tray and apply it thinly with a roller in a criss-cross pattern.
5. Let the first coat of 2K PU Paint cure and apply the second coat in the same way. We recommend applying the second coat of 2K PU Paint after min. 3h but not more than 20h.
6. We recommend coating the walls before coating the bottom of the pool.
   Pro Tip for Flooring: Do not wear rubber-soled shoes while sanding, cleaning, after cleaning, or during the application of the 2K PU Paint, as rubber microparticles may cause an uneven finish. Rubber-soled shoes can be worn once the second coat of 2K PU Paint is cured. Wait until the 2K PU Paint is walkable (approx. 6 hours) before applying the second coat.

Yes, our PU Topcoat can be used as a transparent paint on natural stone.

Yes, our PU Paint can be used as a transparent paint on natural stone.

Yes, our PU Topcoat and PU Paint can be applied with a roller thinly. 

Yes, it is possible to use the polishing paste to polish our polyurethane.

If you wish to sand to remove the polyurethane resin, we recommend using a coarse grit of P80-P120. If you wish only to sand before applying a new layer of polyurethane, we recommend using a grit size of P400, it is not necessary to use a finer grit size between the layers. If you wish to sand and polish the polyurethane after curing, we recommend wet sanding after completechemical curing. To sand and polish polyurethane resin, start with a P400-600 grit size. You can also start with a P800 grit if your polyurethane is smooth. Work your way up gradually up to P3000 as you would for epoxy resin.  

Yes, we recommend doubling the quantities to apply two coats of PU paint or PU Topcoat when bought separately. 

No, it is not necessary to sand between the layers of PU Topcoat or PU Paint. We recommend waiting minimum 6h and maximum 20h at 70°F between the PU layers. If you wait longer than 20h, we do recommend sanding lightly between the layers of PU using a P400 grit.

If the pH level of your pool is lower than 7.2, the PU paint and PU Topcoat will peel off. If the pH level of your pool is over 7.6, the PU Paint and PU Topcoat will whiten. 

Yes, the 2K PU Topcoat is UV-resistant. The 2K PU Topcoat will not yellow. 

Our PU Paint is our most resistant flooring paint that can be applied outdoors. It is possible to add microglass beads into the PU paint to achieve a non-slip finish. Please note that adding microglass beads in the PU paint will change the color of the PU paint.

Yes, it is possible to order the 2K PU Topcoat only.

We always recommend applying 2 coats of 2K PU Topcoat. For both coats of PU Topcoat, you will need 0.56fl.oz./sqft (0.28fl.oz/sqft per coat). 

No, we do not have a polyurethane calculator.

We recommend either our 2K PU Paint to paint a radiator or heater.

To paint a bathtub or sink, we recommend using our 2K PU PAINT.

Yes, our 2K PU Paint can be used to paint outdoor tiles.

Yes, our 2K PU Topcoat can be used as transparent paint on outdoor tiles.

We recommend our 2K PU Topcoat as a transparent paint on wood.

No, we do not have any product to waterproof a pool.

We do not have any product to paint PVC and other plastics with frequent water contact.  

The smallest PU paint quantity available is 42fl.oz (28fl.oz. PU Paint A-component and 14fl.oz. PU Paint B-Component) .

The smallest PU paint quantity available Is 56fl.oz (42fl.oz. PU Topcoat A-component and 14fl.oz. PU Topcoat B-Comonent) .

The EP color paste added into the PU Paint are standard RAL colors but the PU Paint is pre-tintend and white and all colors added into the PU Paint are pastel and not identical to the RAL catalogue.

The PU Paint is pre-tinted in white, to obtain another shade EP Color paste must be added into the PU Paint.

No, you do not need to apply the PU Topcoat on top of the PU Paint to protect it.

Yes, it is possible to apply our PU topcoat on top of a water-based paint such as, a wall paint or our 1k primer and metallic brush effect.

Yes, the PU topcoat is applied with a foam roller in thin layers and can be applied to slope. 

Yes, the PU paint is applied with a foam roller in thin layers and can be applied to slope. 

The A-component of the 2K PU Paint is a thick liquid. The matte A-component 2k PU paint is thicker than the glossy A-component of the 2K PU paint. 

The A-component of the 2K PU Topcoat is a thick liquid. The matte A-component 2k PU topcoat is thicker than the glossy A-component of the 2K PU topcoat. 

The B-component of the 2K PU Paint is a liquid. The matte B-component 2k PU paint is a bit thicker than the glossy B-component of the 2K PU paint. 

The B-component of the 2K PU Topcoat is a liquid. The matte B-component 2k PU topcoat is a bit thicker than the glossy B-component of the 2K PU topcoat. 

Yes, you can use the 2K PU Paint to prevent water from going through the concrete but the 2K PU Paint can’t be used to prevent water from rising from under the concrete. 

Yes, you can use the 2K PU Topcoat to prevent water from going through the concrete but the 2K PU Topcoat can’t be used to prevent water from rising from under the concrete. 

Yes, the PU Paint is available in both matte and glossy finish.

Yes, the PU topcoat is available in both matte and glossy finish.

The working time of the PU topcoat is approximately 30min at 70°F.

The working time of the PU paint is approximately 20min at 70°F.

Indoors, you can use our concrete paint 2K or PU Paint to paint stairs. Outdoors, we recommend using our PU Paint to paint stairs. Our PU Topcoat can be used to paint stairs, if a transparent coat is wanted.

If you want a transparent resin that never yellows, we recommend our 2K PU topcoat. The 2K PU Topcoat is 100% resistant to UV-rays and doesn’t yellow. 

You can apply the 2K PU topcoat on top of epoxy resin to help slow down the yellowing of the epoxy resin but no, applying the 2K PU topcoat on top of epoxy resin will not prevent the epoxy resin from yellowing. 

It is important to use a solvent-resistant roller when working with our PU Paint.

It is important to use a solvent-resistant roller when working with our PU Topcoat.

The PU Paint is pre-tinted in white and therefore all EP Color paste added into the PU Paint are lighter. 

No, it is not possible to achieve a really back or intense red color with the PU Paint, as the base is pre-tinted in white. 

If you are mixing the pigment inside the A-component before adding the hardener B-component, you need to slightly adjust the mixing ratio to take the pigment’s weight into consideration.

yes, you can use pu paint on marble.

Yes, you can use pu topcoat on marble.

We recommend using our 2K PU Paint to achieve a white flooring.

We recommend using our 2K PU Paint or 2K PU topcoat to coat wooden stairs. Our Concrete paint 2k can also be used to coat wooden stairs indoors.

Yes, you can use our PU Topcoat on top of the exposed concrete set to make it waterproof.

Yes, you can use our PU Topcoat on top of the rock design wall set to make it waterproof.

We recommend using our PU Paint to paint a bathtub. Our PU topcoat can be used if you wish to apply a clear coat on your bathtub.

For windows sill, we recommend using our PU Paint.

We recommend using our PU Paint to paint a sink. Our PU topcoat can be used if you wish to apply a clear coat on your sink.

We recommend using our PU paint to paint a shower tray made of marble. 

We recommend using our PU paint to paint a shower tray. Please note that if your shower tray is made of plastic, we recommend sanding and doing a small test with the PU paint to test compatibility.

We recommend using our 2K PU Paint to achieve a white flooring.

We recommend using our 2K PU Paint or 2K PU topcoat to coat wooden stairs. Our Concrete paint 2k can also be used to coat wooden stairs indoors.

CONCRETE PAINT 2K is a 2-components epoxy resin-based paint for indoor use.

CONCRETE PAINT 2K is the best choice for high-traffic, heavily used, or water-exposed surfaces (but not permanent water contact) indoors. CONCRETE PAINT 2K is designed for absorbing concrete, stone, or screed surfaces, garages, basements, warehouses, and industrial halls floors and walls exposed to heavy wear and tear, areas with water contact (e.g., bathrooms, laundry rooms), and surfaces requiring a waterproof, highly durable coating.
CONCRETE PAINT 2K can be used as flooring paint, flooring sealant, wall paint, concrete paint, cement paint, screed paint, plaster paint, and stone paint indoors.

CONCRETE PAINT 2K is only suitable for indoors. 

Instructions for Use CONCRETE PAINT 2K

1. Before using CONCRETE PAINT 2K, the temperature of the room and the substrate should be at least +45°F. The CONCRETE PAINT 2K itself should be at least +65°F.
2. Before painting with CONCRETE PAINT 2K the substrate should be clean, dry, and free of any substance that may prevent the paint's adhesion.
3. Mix resin CONCRETE PAINT 2K (A-component) with hardener CONCRETE PAINT 2K (B-component) in a ratio of 4:1 (e.g., 4gal resin : 1gal hardener). Optionally, the mixture CONCRETE PAINT 2K can be diluted by adding 20% water. Please note that adding water into the concrete paint will impact the coverage.
4. To dye the CONCRETE PAINT 2K resin-hardener mixture, add approximately 5% WB PIGMENT to it. (e.g. 100g (3.5oz) WB PIGMENT for 50fl.oz. (40fl.oz. A+10fl.oz. B) CONCRETE PAINT 2K)
5. Stir through the edge and bottom of the mixing cup as the CONCRETE PAINT 2K will settle there. Ideally, pour into a clean mixing cup and mix again until the CONCRETE PAINT 2K is streak-free. This ensures that the resin A-component and hardener B-component are completely mixed together.
6. To prevent the CONCRETE PAINT 2K from thickening too quickly, pour the mixed and colored CONCRETE PAINT 2K into a paint tray immediately after mixing.
7. Apply the CONCRETE PAINT 2K to the desired surface using a foam roller in a criss-cross pattern.
8. Wait at least 12-48 hours before applying the second coat of CONCRETE PAINT 2K.
9. Allow the last coat of CONCRETE PAINT 2K to dry and harden.

For proper coverage and durability, two coats of 2k Concrete Paint are necessary. In some cases, especially with old concrete, a third coat of concrete paint might be needed.